Replacement Window Installation questions

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diyguy
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 6:04 am

Replacement Window Installation questions

#1 Post by diyguy »

I posted this originally in the do-it-yourself section, but no one read or responded to it, so I'm reposting it here.

Hi All
First off let me tell you how useful this site has been. As my name suggests, I'm quite the DIY Guy. After some good research, I decided to buy one of Lowes' Thermastar replacement windows. For those of you wondering, the window is about what I expected. Living in MA I ordered DH, Low-E, Argon, and Tempered. I renovated my bathroom and this was one of the last things I needed to do. So, my questions are:
When I ordered the window I gave the guy my rough-opening measurements, but their computer cut the frame size down by 1/4" in width and height. Was this appropriate?

When I fitted the window, had the window been exact to my rough opening, it would have fit like a glove, square too. (one nice thing about my house is that my window openings are all very square and level).

So with the gap I followed the instructions to shim the areas where the screws go in. Not a big deal except now I end up having these shim ends extending into my bathroom. So I do my best to cut them short so that they end up flush with the inside of the window...I have to be a perfectionist b/c if the shim is a bit short, it will push into the jamb and fall to the bottom. The window has about a 1/8" lip around the frame area on all sides (inside and out) so this creates an increased gap between the frame and the jamb. I hope this is clear as this is where I need some info from an installer. Did I shim this correctly? Or was I supposed to push the shim past the lip so that it is against the frame? If so, how do I do that? Keeping tension and remaining square. Or does it really matter? It's not clear in the installation directions and pictures.

The instructions also do the above with the top two screws...makes sense, then shim as needed. I feel compelled to shim at all areas because of I just screw in the lower screws, they will pull the window out of square. Or do I just screw them in enough to hold the window in place, but not pull on the frame in any way?

Wow, a book of tips on installation would be great.

Anyway, the window is in, square and level and shimmed at all screw points and seems to be doing fine. It was instantly noticeable what an improvement this was over my single-pane, wood windows.

Any help out there would be appreciated.
thanks!

Guy
Posts: 552
Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:41 pm
Location: Minnesota

#2 Post by Guy »

First of all it's to your benefit to have the window undersized. Most windows require some type of shimming to level out. The gap is then insulated with foam can insulation. You never want to fit a window tight to the opening.

Your fasteners should screw through the window and then through the shims. This makes them easier to cut. The ledge on the Thermastar window will act like a knife blade and start to cut the shims when it's tightened down. You can also slide one vertical inside the back of the jamb and let it slide down to fill the gap. Personally I take a utility knife and cut it off in my shim locations. Your top fastener will not cause much interferance with the operation of the window. The center fastener and the lower one must be tightened just enough to recess the head below the vinyl. If you don't get it past flush the Spring Block on the lower sash will hit it and cause damage. So be careful there. The best way to cut the shims are after your insulation dries around the frame. This will hold it in place for the DIY guy. Otherwise we use a large very sharp two inch chisel. One smack with the hammer and the are flush.
Always shim your window in place first. All four corners at least. Get your bubble level on the sill and then the sides. We then screw the top in place first. We then adjust the frame and make sure it's functional to the sash. We make sure all the reveals are good and zip the two bottom corners. Then we close the sash and lock the window tight. We then shim the middle across from the horizontal center post. We tighten the reveal so it looks perfect up each side of the sash. Then we lock down both centers and insulate. Your now on to the next one!!!

diyguy
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 6:04 am

#3 Post by diyguy »

Thanks Guy
I appreciate your response, especially because I took your recomendation to go with the Pella's and you work with them everyday. So far the window is holding fine. I didn't have any foam insulation but will get that this weekend and finish the install.
I'm sure I'm not the pro you are, but the info here has equipped me with enough confidence that I can do this myself for my entire house (in good time).
Thanks again,
DIYGUY

Guy
Posts: 552
Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:41 pm
Location: Minnesota

#4 Post by Guy »

Your very welcome. That's the true reason most of us are here. We have an abundance of knowledge stored that can help the consumer in many ways. In the long run it's hearing that it helped, as in your case, that makes it all worth it. It also gives a great format for us to debate our fellow installers.

Good Luck & most of all.....have patience!

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