Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
I have a beach house within eight houses of ocean. I am concerned about not using flashing to seal out rain/wind as with "new construction" windows.
Are replacement windows going to keep out the rain/wind where the window "edge" meets the existing house? I understand that caulk would be used to seal this gap? If so, how long will it last near the ocean with salt air, etc.
Are replacement windows going to keep out the rain/wind where the window "edge" meets the existing house? I understand that caulk would be used to seal this gap? If so, how long will it last near the ocean with salt air, etc.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Depends on the installation application and existing window.
I would be mindful of the water as well as the resultant structural deflections resistance that comes with a nailing flange.
What kind of windows and exterior cladding are there now?
I would be mindful of the water as well as the resultant structural deflections resistance that comes with a nailing flange.
What kind of windows and exterior cladding are there now?
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
I am a little confused with the reply.
I currently have metal sliding windows that were installed in the original building of the house in 1985.
The walls were built using 2 x 6' instead of the usual 2 x 4's.
The siding currently is vinyl.
What do you mean by "installation application" and "structural deflections resistance"?
I am trying to determine if replacement windows without nailing flanges (windows installed by screwing through the frame of the window into the "box opening" that is left after old windows are removed) would be appropriate or are "new construction" windows necessary.
The issue I have is with water leaking or not. And how long the caulking will last if I use silicone?
I currently have metal sliding windows that were installed in the original building of the house in 1985.
The walls were built using 2 x 6' instead of the usual 2 x 4's.
The siding currently is vinyl.
What do you mean by "installation application" and "structural deflections resistance"?
I am trying to determine if replacement windows without nailing flanges (windows installed by screwing through the frame of the window into the "box opening" that is left after old windows are removed) would be appropriate or are "new construction" windows necessary.
The issue I have is with water leaking or not. And how long the caulking will last if I use silicone?
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
A nailing flange window will, when done properly, have more levels of water security built into and will be more securely attached to the structure via full perimeter flange.
Can you install a replacement window and make it tight....absolutely. Is that the proper application for a majority of folks....certainly.
If you don't know if your current metal windows are flashed between the sheathing to window connection, installing a replacement window, even perfectly, could leak in the right wind/rain storm at the sheathing level with the window.
I would recommend that you inspect the siding and nailing flange to see if it is properly flashed/taped right now and adjust your installation parameters based on that discovery.
Can you install a replacement window and make it tight....absolutely. Is that the proper application for a majority of folks....certainly.
If you don't know if your current metal windows are flashed between the sheathing to window connection, installing a replacement window, even perfectly, could leak in the right wind/rain storm at the sheathing level with the window.
I would recommend that you inspect the siding and nailing flange to see if it is properly flashed/taped right now and adjust your installation parameters based on that discovery.
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
If a replacement application is done properly, water is not an issue. If a nailing flange is used and the install is not done correctly, water will be an issue. Unless you currently have alot of water damage and wood rot, a replacement would be 100% acceptable.
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
THANK YOU!!
I REALLY appreciate the responses! It has been really hard to find someone with an intelligent response to my concern at the four different supply companies and contractors I have talked to locally!
I feel much better about making a decision involving hundreds of dollars . . .
I REALLY appreciate the responses! It has been really hard to find someone with an intelligent response to my concern at the four different supply companies and contractors I have talked to locally!
I feel much better about making a decision involving hundreds of dollars . . .
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Good advice above... It can be hard to find a straight answer on this stuff since most guys only want to tell you that "their way" is the ONLY right way. As the other Pros stated, either way can effectively be done properly and watertight, the choice of which is best for you depends on you exact circumstances. "New construction" will offer added layers of protection, but replacement is less invasive, costs less, etc.
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
I also had the same question. I have a 15 year old house with vinyl siding and I know the windows were not flashed/taped when they were installed. I wanted them to tear the siding back when the new ones are put in but some window companies I had quotes from didn't think it was necessary, but contractors I had quotes from said they would do that. Is it worth the extra expense to put new construction windows in and have the frame flashed for peace of mind? I am looking at Softlite imperial or Softlite pro windows. They seem to have very good numbers. Would I get more opinions if I posted this as a new question? I live in Pa.
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
IMO , the siding cutback is the way to go. It offers more protection even when the original frame was flashed properly, but when it wasn't ( more often than not in homes under 25 yrs old), you should really tear it out completely or risk leakage.
On product, I like the softlite elements. The Ls is good as a step down.
On product, I like the softlite elements. The Ls is good as a step down.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
+1
I think you are on the right track as well with the cut back.
In terms of window, if you are going to be going the extra step with the cut back and the full, new construction, and flashing approach, I would look at the premium offering from Soft-Lite in the Elements series. The other two that you mention are not bad windows by any stretch, just not in the same class of the Elements.
Other premium windows would be the Sunrise Restorations/Vanguard, HiMark EnviroStar, Kensington Quantum 2, Okna 800, etc.
Happy hunting and keep us post with pictures.
I think you are on the right track as well with the cut back.
In terms of window, if you are going to be going the extra step with the cut back and the full, new construction, and flashing approach, I would look at the premium offering from Soft-Lite in the Elements series. The other two that you mention are not bad windows by any stretch, just not in the same class of the Elements.
Other premium windows would be the Sunrise Restorations/Vanguard, HiMark EnviroStar, Kensington Quantum 2, Okna 800, etc.
Happy hunting and keep us post with pictures.
Last edited by Windows on Washington on Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
toolman - I believe WOW meant to say that your other two choices are NOT bad windows by any stretch, as Softlite products are well regarded here on this forum.
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Whoops...edited for correctness.bgbrock wrote:toolman - I believe WOW meant to say that your other two choices are NOT bad windows by any stretch, as Softlite products are well regarded here on this forum.
Thanks for the catch.
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
NP Eric. Just didn't wanted to avoid any potential confusion
Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Thanks everyone for the replies. I looked into the okna and there is only one dealer in my area and they want to install a replacement window. Called the company several times to find out how to buy them and was told I must use that dealer. The softlite pro and LS I can get with the ultimate glass package which has very good numbers. I'm guessing the price jump to the elements would be pretty much . One big problem I have is getting someone to do the correct install and be able to get one of the great windows mentioned. The installers that said they would do the correct install suggested windows that aren't that great. I will check into the others listed to see if they are sold in my area to private contractors.
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Re: Replacement windows less watertight than "New Construction"?
Toolman,
If you want to contact me directly, I can see who the dealer is in your area if you want to consider that product (Okna) so that you have a wide search variety.
WoW (Eric)
If you want to contact me directly, I can see who the dealer is in your area if you want to consider that product (Okna) so that you have a wide search variety.
WoW (Eric)