Replacement Windows Proper Installation

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bishoptf
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:41 pm

Replacement Windows Proper Installation

#1 Post by bishoptf »

I have been wanting to replace some builder grade vinyl windows for some time now. I am in the mid west in the St. Louis area, the window that I have pretty much settled that I am able to order locally is a Polaris ultra weld. I would probably prefer the okna but when I called them they had no dealers in my area so while the polaris is a little chunky it does appear to be a decent window. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping some folks will weigh in with, one is option upgrades and the other is how in the world can someone find an installer that actually does a proper job.

Lets take the easy one first, options. I am going to go with the Polaris ultraweld a couple of the add ons are foam filled ($19 per window) and innergy reinforcement ($26 per window). I've seen the U rating numbers for the foam filled looks like it makes a .02 to .03 difference. I have not seen much written about the innergy reinforcements so not sure what the major advantages would be for the inserts.

The other option I am looking at is whether to go triple or double pain, three windows will be in my bathroom and Ive always had major condensation issues on the windows, they are in a bay with 2 small single hung windows and a 4'x4' picture window in the middle. It is well ventilated but the windows with shutters on them does not get much airflow over them. I know I will go triple pane for those since I would like to reduce or eliminate the condensation if possible. The supreme triple is .62lf per window and would give me a U factor of .22 with a condensation rating of 65. Not sure if it makes since to make all the other window triple pane so they all look the same or not.

Finally my main issue has been trying to locate an installer that will do a proper install, most just want to cut them out and screw them in. My house is vinyl siding and what I want done is for the siding to be removed and the openings inspected for water damage and then flash the opening as best possible since there is drywall on the returns and then go with a new construction window with nail flange for the install. I have found one contractor that is willing to do this but he does not flash the sill, and not sure I can convince him to do it. the question is how in the world do you find a contractor that actually does what I would consider a proper installation?

Sorry for the length, thanks :)

masterext
Posts: 1404
Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:14 am
Location: Window Pro-Serves All of Northern New Jersey. Bergen, Morris, Union, Essex, Passaic, Sussex Counties

Re: Replacement Windows Proper Installation

#2 Post by masterext »

Reinforcement adds structural intergrity to the window, dedfinitely get it.
Also, get the foam filling.

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toddinmn
Posts: 1067
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:02 pm

Re: Replacement Windows Proper Installation

#3 Post by toddinmn »

I’d consider the Polaris Thermalweld Plus. Perhaps stainless spacer upgrade and double strength glass upgrade.
Reducing condensation in a bath can be difficult but triple pane would help, just might not be noticeable.
Does the contractor put in a sill pan but does not tape the bottom nail fin or do they just don’t put anything there?

Delaware Mike
Posts: 920
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am
Location: South Jersey, Delaware, Philadelphia area

Re: Replacement Windows Proper Installation

#4 Post by Delaware Mike »

When we perform a flanged vinyl new construction install with a vinyl siding R & R that also has sheet rock returns to the head and jambs, we don't pack out the face of the sheathing or behind the flange. I simply will cut back the sheet rock which typically on a modern wall turns out to be something between 3/16" to 3/8" depending on the brand of vinyl we are installing and the sheathing thickness on the house. Most of the new production homes in my are have a typical non-rabbeted 11/16" stool to the interior that will need to be cut back as well. Rather than cutting the stool in place with a Fein type tool, we simply score and free the mud, caulk, and paint from the horns and apron, then pry from the exterior with a pry bar. It's simply just shot down with 16-gauge nails. It's very easy to rip to correct dept with a table saw and reinstalled.

I do this to properly pan flash the rough sill. I prefer to have the entire 2" x 4" or 2" x 6" rough sill covered and up the sides 4"-6". One still has to notch the sill flashing membrane running up that 4-6" on the side to account for the sheet rock that will still be in place. If one has wood jamb extensions and and wood trim we leave the stool in place for the cut back and then just trim down the pan flashing a little. Lately, we have be utilizing some of the Zip Wall flashing products in addition to DuPont materials. There are a lot of good products out there. The directions for all of this are right on the box, YouTube, and manufacturers websites. It's not rocket science.

The problem I foresee is finding a good window GC with the experience in new construction to do this for you to know how to charge for this. Most window dealers in my area have their installers pay based upon replacement methods and this method is so much more time consuming that the dealer, sales rep, subs, and homeowner all need to be on the same page. For example if myself and my two main guys can do 8-12 replacements in a day start to finish, this method might only allow us to do 4-6.

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