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I'm trying to install a double hung replacement vinyl window into a brick frame house. That is, the house is wood studs, then about a one inch space, then a brick outside. If i put the window up against the interior drywall return, like the old window was, when i try to put the bottom/side two screws in, they go into "the space" between the studs and the brick. I can't move the screw holes because they'll interfere with the window sliding. Any ideas? I don't want to have to build a "buck" and then have to buy a smaller window, add more trim to the outside, etc. Anything else i could do?

Your new window should be about 3.25" in depth. Pull the window towards the interior, between the sheetrock, or cut the sheet rock back. There are a few ways to set screws properly for this, but it all depends on the window type, and it hard to explain, at least I have a hard time.

Two screws at the middle and top in the inside rails, and either you have to make a hole for the bottom and sink a pan head to the next level, or shoot your screw through from the outside rail at an angle to the stud using a longer screw. Most manufactures are not really keen on the last one, but I've never had a manf. have a real problem with it as long as it doesn't interfer with the operation of the window.

Why not put some wood in the void between the framing and the masonry to anchor into.

Pull them to the inside a little more till you can hit wood then cap (coil wrap ) the exterior or drill 3/8" holes in the lower sash channel (may void warranty but some manufactures already put theirs in this location anyway) What manufacturer did you purchase your windows from?
There are alot of variables when installing windows. Not everything goes according to the supplied instructions. Operation, water penetration , air infiltration, cosmetics not necessarily in that order. Level, plumb and square very important.

Everyone is right with all this ,just did this on 22 windows in brick very labor intensive, had to put little blocks on some for the gap as the screw would miss and or would pull frame out of square if it was not backed up and it wasnt tight/snug either the little block or wedges are hidden by silicone caulk



I also cut a piece of plywood wider than the top header to the opening width and pre drilled several holes on top ran some 1/1/4 stainless screws into top then worked on the bottom big windows took double hung units out and just hung the frame and played with my level on all this ,they are all flush with no areas to pool water



as i had to frame outwards 2x4 plus sheeting to account for increased jamb thickness and get the plywood siding matched up and plumbed as most of everything was crooked or out of plumb before now it looks right and is plumb and square everwhere


cut sheet rock back using a level to plumb cut line and recess inwards bad thing is windows sills are in the way as they are too wide now

i liked using my old angle grinder on the mortar flash as if i touched the mortar it would crack, dusty but effective with masonry disk and plastic on the inside

the long screw must get into the meat of the house frame, took some adhesive, glued blocks in after many trial fits and shot some long finish nails into small wood blocks

to back up window drilled a small hole at angle above sill in side jamb then a light countersink carefully as the screwhead would interfear with slide clearance

i liked the fine head stainless screws but couldnt find them long enough so i lightly ground the heads down on the 3 " screws and they worked fine with the window slides and angled 3" stainiess screw into blocks

then lighty cut some narrow strips of insulation and tucked them into gaps so not to bow frames though


the windows look like they were built into the house


sheeting covered top edge


and had to do sheetrock cut back and plumbed from the header down because none of the walls were plumb and then do mud work inside and try to stay consistant on the brick sill outside also was a real pain but they look great and dont leak


installed Don Young double hung before silicone caulking

You could also use masonery clips as an install method.

wish i could have found an easier way, the mortar was old and soft and couldnt breath on it or it would crack and a brick would come loose
the grinder did clean it up nice,
a chisel would be to violent, flat bar did ok on mortar flash,
adhesive would have worked
the dust was bad and the grinder had a tough time in the grit but turned out nice.
the windows fit like a glove in spite of all the crooked walls they are plumb

proteus