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 Post subject: Milgard Window Installation
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:26 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:04 pm
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I am considering replacing my windows myself. Want to use Milgard Classic. The new Milgard windows would need to be "Finless" with a sloped sill (sill adaptor) to fit within the frame of the old wood windows.

How do you fasten the Milgard Vinyl window in the new opening? Many of the installation procedures say to screw through the predrilled holes.

I have inspected a few Milgard windows that were installed by a professional installer and there are no screw holes and the windows were flangeless, It appears that these windows were just caulked in.

Is this the proper way to install these windows or do you need to drill holes for proper mounting?

Thanks in advance..


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:43 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:23 am
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Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
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Please do not be offended and I don't want to overcomplicate window installations because they are not, however, given the simplicity of your questions, I would recommend doing some reading up before you undertake the installation and measuring process.

As to your question, it is likely that the installed windows have screw covers over the predrilled holes covering the screws or that you just overlooked them. Insert windows are typically fastened to the rough opening through the sides of the frame.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:22 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:04 pm
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The windows I inspected did not have predrilled holes or screw plugs. I inspected about 5 installed windows and and also looked at one before it was installed. Are the predrilled holes an option from Milgard or do you need to drill them yourself??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:08 am 

Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 5:06 pm
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Location: Kentucky
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Your milgard distributor should have a copy of installation instructions. It has been a few years since we installed Milgard. We drilled a small hole through the side jamb then a larger hole through the 1st wall the size of the screw head. I remember this because on some windows we would drill a small hole and the screw popped right through the 1st wall but with the classics the screw head just stopped and we had to drill the larger hole. I was impressed with the strength of the vinyl.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:52 pm 

Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 3:52 pm
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Where do you live and what Milgard plant will be manufacturing and servicing your windows?

Why isn't your Milgard dealer answering these questions?

Of course your windows can be ordered finless with a sloped sill adapter added at the factory. Be sure you understand how to order for the adapter.

Your new windows will come with the Milgard sticker showing the installation instructions, along with the NFRC sticker.

The vinyl frame on the Classic is very sturdy and most installers caulk the inside of the blind stop, caulk inside around the new window and caulk both sides of the interior stop, then go outside and caulk on the outside edge of the blind stop. Use silicone and polyurethane and painters caulk appropriately. If you measured correctly you should not have any problems.


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 Post subject: screwing the vinyl jamb on a finless replacement window
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:36 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:00 pm
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I too am scratching my head over the whole screwing of the vinyl jamb.

I just received three finless Milgard Tuscany replacement windows that I'm installing myself. They are replacing old single pane aluminum windows that had at some point replaced the original double hung wood sashes. I had the slope sill adapters installed at the factory. I was sweating my measurements because the existing aluminum windows were interfering with measurement taking.

I installed two of the windows this past weekend and when I removed the aluminum windows I found that they were held in place with 1/4 round strips and caulk, no screws, they just popped right out. The aluminum windows were only half the thickness of the 3&1/4" jamb pocket. Fortunately, my measurements were spot on, so I squared them off so they were resting fully on the sill, then completed the install with silicone caulk and backer foam where needed, then replaced the inside stops.

However, the new windows came with no screws and the instructions were completely vague. The only install steps for the Tuscany models on the Milgard site are for finned windows and when I called Milgard I was sent instructions that were almost as vague as the ones that came with the windows. I'm guessing Milgard doesn't take kindly to amateurs installing their own windows.

Anyway, the two windows I did install (casements) didn't really seem to have a nice flat spot in the jambs for drilling holes and screwing. I guess I should screw them, but the thought of punching holes in a brand new water tight window is most unappealing. They seem pretty secure and water tight sandwiched between the inside and blind stops. I have a larger third window to install, a slider, and that seems to have flatter jambs for mounting with screws. We're in earthquake country, but I figure if we have an earthquake strong enough to break the silicone seal, then my windows are going to be the least of my worries.

Other than hiring a professional, does anyone have any suggestions about placing screws in the vinyl jamb of a Milgard window?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:10 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:04 pm
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I did lots of research on this issue but never could get a straight answer. I got conflicting answers from Milgard; One rep said to always drill holes and and the other said to never drill holes. They finally sent me installation instructions but they were for a different type of window installation (useless). I found better recommendations on the internet.

I went on a feild trip one day to a few different construction sites that were installing Milgard windows (by the Pros). I Found that some were screwed and some were not.

I eventually installed (7) milgard Classic windows. On the first window, I just caulked the window in. On the last (6) I used one screw on each side jamb (top under sliding window stop). I inspected the windows very well before I predrilled the holes to ensure I did not drill in the wrong spot, Eventually I drilled the holes in the dead-center of frame on the top left and right sides.

I found it easier to install the windows when I drilled and screwed the windows in place because I didn't have to worry about the window moving before I got the inside trim on the window or before the caulk dried. I did put Shims were the screws were drilled to ensure I didn't deform the frame.

I hope this info helps. I agree, I don't think Milgard or other window companies want amateurs installing these windows.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 1:10 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:00 pm
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Thanks for the reply. Not to take comfort in your situation, but I'm glad to know there's someone else out there who was baffled as I with all this. I don't mean to belittle the profession of window installation, because things could go terribly wrong and get very expensive if one neglects the details. But, this seems like it should be a fairly uncomplicated process for an amateur who follows all the necessary steps. I took measurements about eight times, my neighbors probably think I'm a loon.

Just a couple of quick questions if you have the time.
1. What kind of screws did you use? From what I've read it looks like something stainless, about 2-2.5" long, but is that a wood screw?
2. Did you have to counter-sink them and use vinyl plugs? I guess I'm trying to ask, were your vinyl jambs hollow or solid? I guess it depends on the window model.

The casements I bought have a locking mechanism that runs almost the entire length of the side jamb and the remaining area of the jamb is not a flat surface, so I'm thinking I'll leave those unscrewed. However, the one horz. slider I have has a nice flat surface around the sides and top for setting screws. So at the very least I'll try to get six screws in that one.

Thanks again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:20 am 

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:04 pm
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All the windows I installed were single-hung Milgard Classic replacement windows which I think are now replaced by the Tuscany. The Classic windows had hollow jambs. On the top inside of the jambs were window stops that could be slide down. This is where I predrilled the holes to hide them. I used SS 1-5/8" Deck screws but the length would depend on the window thickness and what you are attaching to. To avoid breaking the vinyl I used my drill to get the screws in most of the way and then hand tightened them.

I did not countersink the screws since they were hidden under the window stops. I did consider drilling a larger hole in the first layer of the jamb so that the screw head would pass through it and hold on the second layer. This way I could use a vinyl plug to make it look better but I decided that it wouldn't matter since they would be hidden under the window stops.

I only used two screws to fasten my windows at the top-sides since the bottom of the windows had a tight fit between the outside stops and the stool.

Here are a few web sites that were somewhat helpful:
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/learning/how-to-install-replacement-windows.aspx
http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/97/970114.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:00 pm
Posts: 3
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Excellent, thanks for the tips.


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