Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

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Cyclone
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:51 pm

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#31 Post by Cyclone »

Thank you HomeSealed. I had looked at NextDoor and Yelp predominantly, but now looked at the BBB as well.

Company #
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1 = 3.53/5 stars, 15/40 complaints in past 1-year/3-years, 59 reviews.

Complaints were about poor installation, problems with service, but only two of the complaints were about windows vs. gutters, siding, HVAC, etc.

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2 = Couldn’t find them on BBB. Not surprised as I think this was a scam installer.

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Zen = 5/5 stars, 0/0 complaints, 23 reviews

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4th company (Alside windows) = 3/5 stars, 0/1 complaints, 2 reviews.

Complaint was about a roof leak 5 years after install. Company purportedly didn’t respond for 5 months until BBB involved.

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4th company (AMI windows - I messed up the numbering in prior post, but keeping it to stay consistent) = 5/5 stars, 0/2 complaints, 5 reviews.

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5 = 4/5 stars, 0/3 complaints, 17 reviews

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6 = 3.94/5 stars, 67/214 complaints (1-year/3-year), 780 reviews.

Charlotte location open 2.5 years. Unable to ascertain if these reviews are for the entire company or the Charlotte office, but I suspect the former.

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toddinmn
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Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#32 Post by toddinmn »

2.5 years is not very long. Let us know how it works out.

Cyclone
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:51 pm

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#33 Post by Cyclone »

I definitely will report back how things go and I will still continue looking for more reviews and neighbors that have used these other companies to get their first-hand thoughts.

I agree that 2.5 years isn’t long. From what I could find, the Pella Symphony isn’t quite the window some of the others are (perhaps I’m mistaken though?). They were also the only ones of the bunch that said they would not include any wood rot repairs and that would be a separate charge assessed at installation.

The longest one of the bunch in business is the fourth company that offered the Alside Mezzo and Simonton 5500. They have been in business 29 years. However, earlier in the thread you all said it doesn’t bode well that the owner said they are not tied to any one window brand.
HomeSealed wrote: Mon Mar 22, 2021 3:45 pm On the other option, not great window and its never good for a contractor to say that they aren't partial to any window brands, and they can get whatever you want. Not only does that not speak well for their knowledge and dedication to their craft, but its not easy to get good service when you don't buy a bunch of product from a given vendor which affects you as the end consumer when service is needed. Thats not to say that you should only work with dealers that carry one product, but a smaller group of top choices depending on the needs of their customers would be preferred.

Cyclone
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:51 pm

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#34 Post by Cyclone »

Does anyone know offhand what the thickness of edge-to-glass of the Imperial Elite and Pro/Classic Plus are?

I’ve still been debating back and forth on whether to splurge for the Imperial Elite. I know it is definitely considered a better window, but my concern is loss of glass with the Imperial LS/Elite. I know I will lose some glass with either option, but I am trying to gauge how much of a loss I'd experience while gaining the benefit of the better window. The upcharge to Imperial Elite is $129/window.

If I am measuring correctly (big if), the track is 7/8” thick (what the screen butts up against in the attached pic), and the bottom sash is 1.75” from edge to glass.

Existing 36 x 64 front window -
Image

Closeup of the same window -
Image

Delaware Mike
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am
Location: South Jersey, Delaware, Philadelphia area

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#35 Post by Delaware Mike »

SL Imperial or Elements bottom sash edge of frame to start of glass is 3 11/16". Random older platforms such as Barrington, Imperial Classic or Pro would be 2 13/16". Top sash on their units features more glass as their platforms don't have equal sightlines.

Those old Andersen Narrowline's have a ton of glass due to the narrow master frames. I wouldn't focus too much on glass loss personally. I just measured the width, there is a height factor too.

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TheWindowNerd
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Location: SE PA & NJ; DFW/Metroplex

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#36 Post by TheWindowNerd »

From previous calculations, I find normal VG loss to be one square foot per window for insert installs.

Cyclone
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:51 pm

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#37 Post by Cyclone »

Delaware Mike wrote: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:18 pm I would not have not capped lintels on your house.
Windows on Washington wrote: Wed Jul 17, 2019 6:00 am Not a fan of capping the lentils like Mike added. It can be an issue long term depending on the home.
HomeSealed wrote: Wed Jul 17, 2019 3:44 pm Bingo on the lintels. Those shouldn't be capped. In most cases they are all caulked and painted with several coats etc so they may not be the end of the world, but it is technically not correct to cap them as they do provide a path for moisture drainage from behind the masonry in addition to supporting the brick above the opening. Given that you have this issue, that would be a place to start IMO. Have the top trim pieces removed and recapped with lintels left exposed.
WindowsDirectCinci wrote: Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:31 pm There are a few reasons to not cap over the steel lintel. Corrosion can occur when aluminum and steel are in contact with each other and as stated above you could be trapping in moisture when water gets in behind the brick (which happens more than homeowners realize)
TheWindowNerd wrote: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:55 pm So I just had to check, my mechanical master frame/ welded sash from 1990 are going strong.
Nice fabricator with Chelsea extrusions.
Any who I would start by cutting out the old caulking and reseal with Quad or some other polimer based sealant.
Caution: many installers seal the lintel to the masonry above and trap water in and force it to the inside. Do not seal the cap or lintel to the mortar or masonry above, it is considered part of a drain plane.
I realize I’m quoting you guys from other threads over a year old at this point, but I was researching what one normally does with the lintels when replacing a window and they were directly related.

My installer today did my measuring and went over things with me, in particularly calling out that they do not cap the lintels, but do cap the other three sides. He mentioned most people leave them or paint them.

Sounds like that was proper advice based on the messages here. To that effect, is there any particular/process recommended or just simple use exterior primary and paint? Would you recommend this be done before the old windows are removed or after the new windows are installed?

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Windows on Washington
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Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC

Re: Norandex vs Slocomb vs. Keep shopping

#38 Post by Windows on Washington »

He is correct.

We cap up to them, but never to the front faces.

I would get them all painted before you start the windows.

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