1989 Andersen Windows (low e?)

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Re: 1989 Andersen Windows (low e?)

#16 Post by Jungle »

Thanks everyone for your insight.

My wife has found some documentation on the windows and they are indeed not Andersen, they are Willmar Windows, head office was located in Winnipeg at the time. It seems they might have been bought out by Jeld-Wenn but I am not sure of that. The documentation does not say if they are low e glass, simply dual panes.

Consensus on the forum is that replacing IGU in such old window frames would not be the best solution. I will take this advice and get some quotes on window replacement, both full frames and inserts. In order to do a proper job I am assuming full frame replacement will require cutting back the stucco on the outside of the house in order to get a good weatherseal. Inserts will leave the frame intact and fit some kind of window inside the existing window frame. I don't see how this will be much better than simply replacing the IGU with modern energy efficient IGU. Hopefully the contractor giving the estimate will enlighten me on the benefit of insert versus IGU replacement.

The reason I am considering upgrading the insulation value is to eliminate some condensation on the windows when the temperature drops below about 0 deg Farenheit. This happens quite often in the Calgary area. I am not looking to recoup my investment in gas savings, I am merely looking to avoid condensation issues and have a better comfort level in selected rooms. We have lived in the house since new, and will likely live here for another 15 years, God willing.

Once again, thank you all for your insight, it has been very enlightening. This is definitely a great window forum.


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Re: 1989 Andersen Windows (low e?)

#17 Post by HomeSealed »

Jungle wrote: Sun Mar 21, 2021 10:11 am Thanks everyone for your insight.

Inserts will leave the frame intact and fit some kind of window inside the existing window frame. I don't see how this will be much better than simply replacing the IGU with modern energy efficient IGU.
Couple of ways:
1) First and foremost, it is replacing all of the moving parts and pieces. Balance systems, weather-stripping, base material, finish inside and out, etc. I'd suggest that looking at it in the reverse would be more accurate, in that you are really getting 98% of the benefit of full window replacement as opposed to being just glorified glass replacement. All those 30 year old parts are gone, the frame is not much more than "filler". The only thing that is not "new" in terms of the performance, will be the seal between the old frame and rough opening. If any issue exists there, that could still be addressed for a bit less than full frame replacement. Your mention of stucco is another check in the column for pockets as opposed to full frames.
Full frames are more comprehensive to be sure and if you are especially sensitive to the possibility of a little glass loss, or more importantly if there are any existing water leak issues, full frame becomes a stronger candidate. From an energy efficiency standpoint however, the difference from pockets to full frames is not substantial.

2) If you are sourcing glass from a local glass company, they usually offer pretty basic stuff. The low e profiles, spacers, warranty, etc are typically going to be better as standard in a new window. Some may be able to order the higher performance options, but then the cost is rising even more closing that gap to replacement, and again they typically don't offer much for warranty coverage, at least not in my experience.

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Windows on Washington
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Re: 1989 Andersen Windows (low e?)

#18 Post by Windows on Washington »

Solid and comprehensive answer there by HomeSealed. Can't add anything to that.

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Re: 1989 Andersen Windows (low e?)

#19 Post by TheWindowNerd »

If your stucco has no water infiltration you can do full frame that are water tight with out doing fin cut backs.
A high level of attention to QC on the install is magnified with stucco.
With the general window installer the safest and easiest path is insert, the least cost too.

The normal glass loss form projects that I have done the numbers on is 1 square foot of VG loss with insert installs.
A good way to visualize the loss is to take 1" tape and run it around the glass of the existing units and see if the size or less light is worth the full frame cost.

theWindowNerd wayne

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