Replacing windows on a brick home

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HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#16 Post by HomeSealed »

Very nice explanations by anthony. My only additional commentary would be regarding those added benefits.


1 You maintain or have a net gain in visible glass.Absolutely correct, however it may not be worth the $$$ premium, especially if you do not have abnormally narrow openings, and go with a window that has slim lines
2 all the rotted wood is goneTrue again, although rotted wood replacement should be part of a quality insert installation as well.
3 you can insulate between the window and rough openingThis can easily done by popping the interior casing on and off. Much cheaper option than pulling the entire frame at an additional $200 per opening (give or take)

Ultimately, either installation can serve you very well and have the same efficiency if done properly. In my experience, 80-90% of installs are good candidates for insert replacements. There are some unscrupulous dealers floating around however that would lead you to believe that a full tear-out is the "only"way to get a good, efficient install which simply is not true... Ironically, those same dealers performed insert installs for many years, and are just looking for new ways to justify buku bucks for their services....

Incidentally, those coments are not at all directed toward anthony. I have never met a more honest and ethical guy in this business. :)

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TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#17 Post by TheWindowNerd »

+1 to Homesealed excellent comments.
Either insert or full tear/fullframe replacement can be the best choice. The important thing is that you as the homeowner are educated to make the correct selection for your situation and get the result you want.
I do tend towards the full tear/full frame method, in most cases if there was no cost difference most everyone would choose it.

In the full tear/full frame method you can use either a window with or without fins. Also you can either get your windows with or with out the jamb extension factory applied.

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#18 Post by kyslugbug »

What would be the deciding factors as to whether to go with an pocket insert replacement window or a new construction window w/o nail flanges should I decide to attach jambs directly to the new window? What are the differences between the two windows? Is the new construction window deeper than 3 1/4"?

BTW, I've been measuring the gaps between the window jambs and the rough openings on my currently installed windows. The gap sizes range between 1/2" and 1". None less than 1/2".

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#19 Post by kyslugbug »

The bottom 2x4 (Rough Opening) of my worst window unit (2 double hung windows mullled together) is 1/2 to 2/3's damaged by carpenter ants (called in an exterminator). I will, at least, have to replace this board.

My original plan was to remove the old window, repair the RO, and then install the new window. I was trying to measure the RO when I decided to change my plan. I don't want to order new windows based on measurements of an opening that will be repaired (changed) later. And, at this point, I really don't know the full extent of the damage.

Crazy as it may seem, I've decided to temporarily remove the old window, repair the RO, measure the repaired RO, and then temp re-install the old window.

It will be more work, but, if I can't handle this, I have no business installing new windows.

(I'll post pictures later.)

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TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#20 Post by TheWindowNerd »

You can always repair the opening and get it back to the same RO as was previous. What you propose takes a lot more time. The trick is not the RO repair but the correct measuring of the new window.
Last edited by TheWindowNerd on Sun Sep 09, 2012 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

beaver
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#21 Post by beaver »

If you have interior casing and not drywall returns, remove the casing to expose the RO. You can then measure and order the windows. You would then only have to remove the windows once and be able to replace any rotted wood before installing the new windows.

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TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#22 Post by TheWindowNerd »

make sure that you compare your RO to your MO. They are not the same and do not always give you the same sill or head height.

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#23 Post by kyslugbug »

anthony wrote:make sure that you compare your RO to your MO. They are not the same and do not always give you the same sill or head height.
I know RO and MO are different. Not sure what your trying to tell me.

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#24 Post by kyslugbug »

Removed window / repaired frame / measured frame / replaced window.
Removing and replacing window was too easy (sadly). I already had the inside trim off. Removed outside trim and fiberglass insulation and the ONE nail attaching the 2 windows (mulled) to the frame.

Think there's enough gap between window and frame?
Image

Here's my ant farm.
Image

Here's the repaired frame.
Image

Image

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TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#25 Post by TheWindowNerd »

looks like ya got it under control.
that looks like PT lumber, did you use stainless steel fastners?

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#26 Post by kyslugbug »

anthony wrote:looks like ya got it under control.
that looks like PT lumber, did you use stainless steel fasteners?
I used treated lumber and exterior deck screws.
I'll be using stainless steel fasteners when I install windows.

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#27 Post by kyslugbug »

Am I missing something, again? Someone, please verify this for me.

When replacing a window with a pocket insert, the insert must sit on an existing external window sill. Also, that external window sill sits on a 15 degree (approx?) wedge that slopes that existing sill downward.

So, to follow this through, if I attach a frame (jambs) directly to the insert, the legs would be approx. 1/4" shorter than the window rough opening height. However, the insert height would be the rough opening height minus the total of 1/4" plus the height of the external window sill (and the wedge?).

If an external window sill isn't used, what extends the insert sill outward to overlap the brick exterior?

Thanks!

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Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#28 Post by Windows on Washington »

At that point you should have some sort of Azek sill to overlap the brick or at least have some coil stock or sill angle.

kyslugbug
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#29 Post by kyslugbug »

Windows on Washington wrote:At that point you should have some sort of Azek sill to overlap the brick or at least have some coil stock or sill angle.
I'd really appreciate it if you could dumb that down for me a bit.
Also, can the sill on the pocket insert be extended?
I don't think there's anything unique about my brick home. How do most people do the external window sill?

Window4U (IL)
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home

#30 Post by Window4U (IL) »

kyslugbug wrote: Also, can the sill on the pocket insert be extended?
I don't think there's anything unique about my brick home. How do most people do the external window sill?

There is a piece of vinyl called a sill extender that snaps into the accessory groove on the sill that fills in the gap. You'll need to rip it to the proper height. It should have come with the window. It looks like this:

Image

Sometimes window installers will bend the sill aluminum to do away with this piece, as in this picture.
Image

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