Replacing windows on a brick home
Replacing windows on a brick home
Replacing windows in a 25 year old brick home. Trying to decide between insert replacement windows or new construction windows.
What factors should I consider? Pros and Cons?
Current windows are all wood. Anderson, I think.
The side window jambs (towards the bottom) on several windows will need repair/replacement. One window needs the bottom 2x4 of the window frame opening replaced. Those are both repairs I can do.
Two of my window openings consist of two double hungs mulled together.
One of my window openings consist of three double hungs mulled together.
A little less than 1/2" of the 2x4 frame is showing past the brick on each side. I was thinking I'd have to add a 2x4 on each side (and the top?) to have something to attach the nail fins. Slightly smaller opening.
Just not sure what additional problems I might be creating for myself by taking this route. Moulding, trim work?
From the little bit of pricing I've done, new construction windows will cost me about $90 more, per window, than insert replacement windows. If I go with insert replacement windows, I'll still be replacing the wood window sills with vinyl.
Also, how wide is the typical nail flange?
Thanks! I appreciate all comments.
What factors should I consider? Pros and Cons?
Current windows are all wood. Anderson, I think.
The side window jambs (towards the bottom) on several windows will need repair/replacement. One window needs the bottom 2x4 of the window frame opening replaced. Those are both repairs I can do.
Two of my window openings consist of two double hungs mulled together.
One of my window openings consist of three double hungs mulled together.
A little less than 1/2" of the 2x4 frame is showing past the brick on each side. I was thinking I'd have to add a 2x4 on each side (and the top?) to have something to attach the nail fins. Slightly smaller opening.
Just not sure what additional problems I might be creating for myself by taking this route. Moulding, trim work?
From the little bit of pricing I've done, new construction windows will cost me about $90 more, per window, than insert replacement windows. If I go with insert replacement windows, I'll still be replacing the wood window sills with vinyl.
Also, how wide is the typical nail flange?
Thanks! I appreciate all comments.
- HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
What most people don't realize in an application like yours is that if you are building a buck frame for new construction (downsizing the window, adding wood as you described), you are essentially re-constructing the same thing as a replacement window anyway with the exception of the nailing fin. Many pros prefer fin-less windows in brick openings anyway, so my recommendation for the most efficient install would be insert style, just replacing any wood that is bad and insuring that the water management system is addressed.
On new construction vs replacement windows, it is the same product with either an integral nailing fin or one that is snapped on. If you go that route, I prefer integral when possible. It should not cost $90 more, unless that is including some of labor costs or jamb extensions.
On new construction vs replacement windows, it is the same product with either an integral nailing fin or one that is snapped on. If you go that route, I prefer integral when possible. It should not cost $90 more, unless that is including some of labor costs or jamb extensions.
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Thanks HS!
Well said. Inserts seem to be the common sense choice for brick.
Any tips maybe on common mistakes I might avoid concerning water management?
Well said. Inserts seem to be the common sense choice for brick.
Any tips maybe on common mistakes I might avoid concerning water management?
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
brick and mortar are not water proof, unless they are sealed.
also it is good to seal the air gap between the brick facade and the frame/sheath to stop air movement around the windows.
also it is good to seal the air gap between the brick facade and the frame/sheath to stop air movement around the windows.
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Thanks, Anthony! I'm printing these tips to add to my checklist.
This is why I want to install my own windows. I want to spend the extra time to do the extra things that really make a difference.
This is why I want to install my own windows. I want to spend the extra time to do the extra things that really make a difference.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
A qualified installer will do all of those things that both HomeSealed and anthony mentioned as well.kyslugbug wrote:Thanks, Anthony! I'm printing these tips to add to my checklist.
This is why I want to install my own windows. I want to spend the extra time to do the extra things that really make a difference.
I am also a DIY nut (to the displeasure of my wife), however, a good contractor will get the project done to those same specifications.
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
In the beginning, I went DIY because I couldn't afford to hire someone. Now I just do it for the satisfaction. It's also good therapy for my Parkinson's.A qualified installer will do all of those things that both HomeSealed and anthony mentioned as well.
I am also a DIY nut (to the displeasure of my wife), however, a good contractor will get the project done to those same specifications.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Big thumbs up to you for knocking it out.
Post up some before and after stuff. We love seeing successful projects by posters.
Post up some before and after stuff. We love seeing successful projects by posters.
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
I was explaining to a friend how I was taking my measurements for a pocket insert installation. He gave me a real confused look and asked me why I was using the frame from the old wooden windows instead of the original framed opening.
If I understood him correctly, he was trying to tell me that I could install a pocket insert into the original framed opening. Am I missing something? I have assumed that can't be done, but, to be honest, I don't know why.
He's going to stop by my house to see the windows and discuss it. I'll report back on what he tells me.
If I understood him correctly, he was trying to tell me that I could install a pocket insert into the original framed opening. Am I missing something? I have assumed that can't be done, but, to be honest, I don't know why.
He's going to stop by my house to see the windows and discuss it. I'll report back on what he tells me.
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
You can use a "replacement window" = 3 1/4" thick window as a full tear/full frame replacement.
You either figure out the existing unit size(the old frame size) or measure the RO & MO and deduct for installation sizing.
The new replacement window can be ordered with or without a nailing fin(different models have various options) and or can be oredered with jamb extensions.
If your original windows are for standard 2x4 construction your jamb thickness is 4 9/16 with an overall in to out of 5 1/2 to 6".
I like to rip primed 1 x6 to get the total thickness I want then apply the head and two legs with stool(sill) directly to the window before setting it in the hole.
Depending on the window we back screw throught the off set of the frame or us trim heads through the face of the jamb ext. You can also set the windows then jamb them out or jamb out the opening and then pull the new window up to the jamb ext.
the window nerd
You either figure out the existing unit size(the old frame size) or measure the RO & MO and deduct for installation sizing.
The new replacement window can be ordered with or without a nailing fin(different models have various options) and or can be oredered with jamb extensions.
If your original windows are for standard 2x4 construction your jamb thickness is 4 9/16 with an overall in to out of 5 1/2 to 6".
I like to rip primed 1 x6 to get the total thickness I want then apply the head and two legs with stool(sill) directly to the window before setting it in the hole.
Depending on the window we back screw throught the off set of the frame or us trim heads through the face of the jamb ext. You can also set the windows then jamb them out or jamb out the opening and then pull the new window up to the jamb ext.
the window nerd
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Pardon my ignorance. I'm trying to learn the jargon.
Hope you have time to simplify this for me. Thanks!
RO & MO?
http://www.cartercountymarket.com/windows/
Hope you have time to simplify this for me. Thanks!
RO & MO?
jamb extensions? Is this extending the jambs inward to create interior trim?...or measure the RO & MO and deduct for installation sizing.
with stool(sill)? The stool and the sill?...or can be ordered with jamb extensions.
Sorry, didn't understand any of this.I like to rip primed 1 x6 to get the total thickness I want then apply the head and two legs with stool(sill) directly to the window before setting it in the hole.
Thought pictures might help.Depending on the window we back screw through the off set of the frame or use trim heads through the face of the jamb ext.
http://www.cartercountymarket.com/windows/
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
RO is rough opening, what the frame opening is if you remove the window, what the carpenters made the hole for the window to go into.
MO is the masonery opening, not the same as above since your existing windows have overlap exterior casing.
You have brick venner over frame, plus you have plaster over gypsum.
The jamb extension is what you have to apply to the window to get the wall thickness you want, the two most common are 4 9/16( 1/2" sheathing + 2x4 + 1/2" sheet rock) and 6 9/16 ( only difference is 2x6 framing), they are todays most common. But you can make it eactly what you need.
Stool = sill for the interior, unless you are going to picture frame.
The jamb extension can be attahed to the window before installing the window. Two methods of attaching are to back screew or face screw. If you do not understand it you will need to have someone help you with it. If you get the first one right the rest are production.
the window nerd
MO is the masonery opening, not the same as above since your existing windows have overlap exterior casing.
You have brick venner over frame, plus you have plaster over gypsum.
The jamb extension is what you have to apply to the window to get the wall thickness you want, the two most common are 4 9/16( 1/2" sheathing + 2x4 + 1/2" sheet rock) and 6 9/16 ( only difference is 2x6 framing), they are todays most common. But you can make it eactly what you need.
Stool = sill for the interior, unless you are going to picture frame.
The jamb extension can be attahed to the window before installing the window. Two methods of attaching are to back screew or face screw. If you do not understand it you will need to have someone help you with it. If you get the first one right the rest are production.
the window nerd
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Thanks, Anthony! Very helpful!
What do I gain by using this method instead of a replacement that uses the old window frame?
Sounds to me like, by attaching the head and two legs with stool(sill) directly to the window, I am eliminating the space between the replacement window and the old window frame (energy savings). The new vinyl replacement window and wood frame go in as one unit. I guess it would increase glass space, too.
Also, would this method be OK for the 2 and 3 window mulled units?
What do I gain by using this method instead of a replacement that uses the old window frame?
Sounds to me like, by attaching the head and two legs with stool(sill) directly to the window, I am eliminating the space between the replacement window and the old window frame (energy savings). The new vinyl replacement window and wood frame go in as one unit. I guess it would increase glass space, too.
Also, would this method be OK for the 2 and 3 window mulled units?
- TheWindowNerd
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- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 3:05 pm
- Location: SE PA & NJ; DFW/Metroplex
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
1 You maintain or have a net gain in visible glass.
2 all the rotted wood is gone
3 you can insulate between the window and rough opening
yes you can do the same method witn composite units, we usually take the sash out for ease of handling.
2 all the rotted wood is gone
3 you can insulate between the window and rough opening
yes you can do the same method witn composite units, we usually take the sash out for ease of handling.
Re: Replacing windows on a brick home
Thanks again, Anthony!
Sounds like it would be a bit more challenging, but a more efficient install.
Also, are you saying that I can either order the window with the head and legs attached or I can get some primed 1 x6 and do them myself?
I do appreciate your patience.
Any other thoughts or comments out there?
Thanks!
Sounds like it would be a bit more challenging, but a more efficient install.
Is this installation for replacement windows or new construction without fins (or both)?You can use a "replacement window" = 3 1/4" thick window as a full tear/full frame replacement.
...The new replacement window can be ordered with or without a nailing fin(different models have various options) and or can be ordered with jamb extensions.
Also, are you saying that I can either order the window with the head and legs attached or I can get some primed 1 x6 and do them myself?
I do appreciate your patience.
Any other thoughts or comments out there?
Thanks!