Replacement of 4 Large Direct Set Window Questions

[asnigro]

Good morning all,

I moved into a mid-century modern styled ranch home a little over a year ago that I bought knowing some window replacement work had to be done.

In the living room looking into the back yard, there are four 96" tall by 72" wide direct set windows with approximately 4' overhangs protecting them from most moisture and direct sunlight (northeast exposure). Over time, the glass panes have begun to sink into the wood sills creating small gaps (1" at most in one window) at top of them and the tilting of the sills inward. One of the four has also gotten "cloudy" (seal broken I assume).

I have had a couple of people out to look at their replacement, be-it not all for replacement with the "direct set" method. I have had a vinyl replacement company and Renewal By Anderson (RBA) with their "Fibrex". I also have and a couple of glass only and carpenter method quotes (sounds risky to have separate glass providing and carpentry outfits do the install).

I would like to not stray too far from the the clean/modern stylings and architecture of the home when replacing these windows so I'm starting to lean towards the "direct set" method of replacement (am I wrong in thinking I should cross out the vinyl, composite, or wood framed window options?).

Could vinyl or composite material even handle a glass load of this size?

Sounds like their size and relativity to the ground (set about 1' from the floor) will require them to be tempered (RBA added $600+ for each window for this feature).

From online research, sounds like direct set would be a lower cost to the sash/framed window without sacrificing in things like energy efficiency/air leakage (located in midwest with cold winters)?

Anyone with experience with these methods care to chime in with an opinion?

Thanks in advance.

[Windows on Washington]

We recently put in a window that was of similar size.

It was 96" wide by 72" tall and in the Okna frame, it was just fine.

Tempered glass was standard but the window is great. Seems to be doing just fine and wasn't that bad to handle either.

[Randy]

I've done direct sets, where the IG unit was set directly into the wood framing and trimmed out. From the sound of your description, this would probably look the best as it would give the cleanest appearance, maintaining the architectural characteristic the home was designed with.

The difficulty is in warranty of the glass. If you buy a window from a manufacturer, you get a strong warranty on the seal. If you buy just an insulated glass unit from a local glass company, the warranty (at least around here) is very weak - like one or two years.

With an insulated glass unit that large, it doesn't take a lot of movement to break the seal. All it takes it for one side of the glass to lose some support and therefore start to move while the other side is stabilized and doesn't move. Putting a complete window in provides more assured stability.

If you go the direct set route, the carpenter needs to make sure that he has a very flat, level and stable surface across the bottom to minimize the possibility of shearing the IG unit.

[HomeSealed]

Spot on advice from Randy. We have also done it both ways. I have yet to get a call on a seal failure, but there is definitely a higher risk and far shorter warranty. If the look is acceptable, I'd probably opt for the full frame option. I have only gone direct set with REALLY large sizes that our manufacturers won't offer.
In the event that you go direct set, find a company that will handle the carpentry and setting of glass. You are right in worrying about accountability if you were to have two separate outfits in on that.

[Windows on Washington]

We never do direct sets anymore.

I will only do a sash pack at the least. The glass needs to be able to drain and be fully supported during both install and shipping.

IGUs are too risky if you ask me.

[TheWindowNerd]

Good comments by all.
Direct set IGU would be the cleanest.
Next would be sash only/deadlite.
Last would be full frame.
Based on your current condition it sounds as if the some frame sill repair is needed.
The direct set will require the most skill to do right and provided long duarabilty. This will become a dual selection process as to the mechanics and the material. You could remove the whole frame and do aluminum store front as they are more used to those sizes. If not the sill support has to be very solid I would also suggest a sill pan cap of .050 metal. As to glass you want at least 1 1/4" OD to have a good airspace, you are going to want the glass to come from a commercial fabricator that is used to a 20 year seal failure warranty. So finding the mechanic and material supplier will become more difficult in this case. Finding them both in one resource is very scarce.
I think the best option as far as pulling this off with success and as little agg as possible is the deadlite/sash only option. I would look for some thing that has a 1 1/4 to 1 3/16" OD on the IGU.
InLine fiberglass can make that. Other companies can to often in there Monumental/commercial offerings.

[asnigro]

Thanks for the feedback.

Sounds like I need to get into some show rooms and see how the framed options would look in person and decide from there.

Pertaining to TheWindowNerds comment, yes sill replacement would be necessary. I also thought about how storefronts have such large windows and how they are constructed and if this would relate to my situation. I too was thinking this would be difficult to find someone that does residential work in this situation.

Thanks again for your input!