Replacing 1955 Anderson Pressure Seal Double Hung Window

[pb940072]

Looking to replace an Anderson Pressure Seal double hung window (installed in 1955) with an insert window.

The window jamb doesn't have a removable sash track, but rather, the sash track is build into the jamb. Also, the interior sash stop is not removable (i.e., not like a piece of trim). As the sash tracks seem to be more akin to a tongue-and-groove joint, where the groove is built into the jamb as the sash track, and the sash is like the tongue traveling along the groove.

From the information I was able to find online, generally, to install a new insert window, you would first remove the interior sash stop (can't do that here), and then remove the old sash track (and the upper and lower sashes). This gives you a flat surface for the new insert window to sit against.

If you don't have removable interior sash stops and if the sash track is incorporated into the jamb, what do you do to install a replacement insert window?

Fill in the sash tracks to even them out? Cut the interior sash stop to allow a new insert window to slide in, and then install a new interior sash stop?

Here is a link to Anderson's site that will allow a .PDF of the Anderson Pressure Seal Double Hung Window:

http://www.andersenwindows.com/search/g ... ic:techdoc

Thanks for any input or thoughts about how to install an insert window to replace Anderson PRessure Seal Double Hung Window (from 1955)

Paul

[Windows on Washington]

Are you doing these windows or having them done?

If you are having them done, they will likely cut off what they need to on the exterior, pull the sashes from that direction, set the new unit, and cap off the exterior.

[TheWindowNerd]

To bad there is not a cross section to look at.
If a pro is doing it let them worry about it.
If you are doing it yourself and you do not want to cut the exterioir or interior lip off, then you would measure the clear opening and order the window that size, you may have to then pack out the sash glide area, and possibly add shoe or some other interior molding.

[pb940072]

Thanks for the input/suggestions Windownerd and Win on Washington.

Looking to do this on our own. Sounds like we need to either come from the outside (cut/remove the outside sash stop), fill in all the sash channels/track (i.e., rip wood to proper dimensions, maybe accounting for a little expansion), and slide in window from outside to the interior sash stop, and replace exterior sash stop (to hold the insert window in), or

from the inside, cut/remove the interior sash stop, fill-in the sash channels/track, insert new insert window, and place something (molding/trim) on the inside for an interior sash stop (to hold the new insert window in).

I understand what you are saying windownerd, about completely filling in to the interior/exterior sash stop inside lips, and using that as the new rough-opening measurement, and then creating new interior/exterior stops after installing the new window.
Is there a limit (or aesthetic desirable limit) as to how far in one wants to go to filling-in for an insert window?

I guess ideally, if I thought my skills were sufficient, I would
1) cut out as much of the sash channels (filling-in what I couldn't cut-out) to maximize my rough opening for the new window.

or
2) Easier would be to remove an exterior sash stop (if removable), fill in the sash tracks, and slide the new win in (lose some of the rough opening as compared to (1)
or

3) Completely fill in the sash tracks to the inside lip of the interior/exterior sash stops, and slide new window in (looses the most rough opening).

Any thoughts/experiences on cutting the sash stops (if neither is removable)? just brute force with a sabre or reciprocating saw, sanding the edge smooth? or, is there a better/easier way to cut out the interior or exterior sash stop (And even some of the existing sash channel)?

For what it is worth, the house has plaster walls, and (not sure what the proper term is) doesn't require interior trim around the window (i.e., the plaster comes to the edge of the window frame, and doesn't need trim to hide the junction between the window frame and the wall/rough opening). So, if possible, I'd like to not disturb the plaster...

Thanks again for any continued thoughts/suggestions...

[TheWindowNerd]

Your last comments give me pause and concern. A sawzall makes a lot of vibration and may disturb the window/plaster interface.
My normal approach would be to remove the exterior stop with sawzall or by chisel, no filling in channel, insert window, square up, secure unit, insulate/foam cavity, cap ( custom bend and apply aluminum coil) the exterior.
Capping the exterior eliminates painting and the need for new stops. The four install screws( you can add more) and the foam will keep the window in.

[pb940072]

Thanks!