Window Suggestions

[erikbgt]

Currently live in GA, have 15 windows - all single pane, single hung builder grade aluminum around 32+ years old (and leaking air badly).

Planning to only be in the house for 3-5 years maybe, so don't need a "Cadillac" of windows.

Been getting quotes but seems to be all 6-7K for a solid double pane window (Okna deluxe 500/insultec seems to be the best bang for the buck).

Any thoughts on getting a good efficiency window in more of the 4K range? I don't need double hung, or flip in - but seems to get the efficiency and low air infiltration I have to get these extra features.

Thanks for the suggestion and advice!

--Erik

[Windows on Washington]

Erik,

I don't think you are going to find anything decent at the 4K number. At 6-7K, you are probably on the lower end of the scale of what you would expect to spend for even a decent unit.

If you can get an Okna 500 for that, you are winning big time.

[erikbgt]

Erik,
If you can get an Okna 500 for that, you are winning big time.

I'm pretty sure they are Okna 500, they are the insultec. I got another quote today for around the same price with the Slocomb 177, but the demo unit seemed a bit nicer. Not sure your experience with those vs the Okna insultec deluxe. Thanks again.

[Windows on Washington]

In my estimation, the Okna 500 is superior.

[erikbgt]

Thanks.

Sorry for so many questions, but someone brought now again that since I have drywall on the inside area of the window opening, that I should not use a pocket window, but instead pull the drywall out and get a framed window? What are you thoughts on that - but these two contractors also offered single hung windows too vs the others only offered double.

--Erik

[Windows on Washington]

An insert is a full framed window. It is just a matter of how you set it.

Unless you are going to tear off or cut back the siding, you will not be going with a new construction/flanged unit.

The removal type will be a full frame removal and the unit will be set in either the drywall jambs or to the rough opening.

[TheWindowNerd]

Are you saying that they would remove the window, the drywall returns/stool & apron, set the new window with jamb extension and apply new stool and casing for the same price with the 500DX?

[erikbgt]

I'm awaiting the quotes on the full new construction, but they stated they would pull the 1x6s off on the outside for the flanges. It seems like a lot of Unnecessary work - but they claim that the old contractor single pane aluminum window frames are junk and should be entirely replaced. I figured I'd see what everyone on here thinks as well since I had 2 quotes with just using the pocket replacement.

[TheWindowNerd]

Heres what I think...
You seem to be budget minded, no problem there, but you can only get what you pay for, well at lest you hope you do.
Anyway the primary concern for most people is that the windows are energy effiencent. Everyone is going to tell you theirs is the best. Some of them are ignorant and some just plain liars, and some honest. How do you tell the difference. Several of us have shared that the 500DX at the price quote is a great deal, not only that but is one of the best windows available.
NOw you have add the variable of a new construction type install with either new drywall pockets or jamb extension and full trim. That adds $250 to the cost of each window.
So can you afford that is the question.

[erikbgt]

Heres what I think...
That adds $250 to the cost of each window.
So can you afford that is the question.

That's what I'm concerned about if I truly need that - or if it's just some up-selling. I called the OKNA person and he felt confident that I did not need new construction windows and would be fine (they have great reviews). Just hard for me to know for sure since I admit I am not an expert by any means.

--Erik

[HomeSealed]

Great feedback from the other pros above.
On the installation style, it probably is not NEEDED, although it is not just a sales gimmick either. Removing the cedar boards, cutting back the sheetrock, and installing the new unit with nail fin, flashing tape, etc is a superior installation. Period. It will provide more layers of protection, particularly against water leakage. That being said, is it needed, and is it worth the added expense in your situation? That really depends on the condition of the original water management system. If it was done properly and is in good condition (properly lapped, etc) then there is no reason that you can't simply integrate a new window with it and save yourself some money. If not, then you could be in for some disappointment down the road. What you really need is a qualified individual to inspect the existing situation, and tell you what is needed (or not) and why. If you are not getting that, then I'd probably spend the extra $$$ for peace of mind down the road.

[masterext]

Proper replacement/ insert will seal just fine unless there is a lot of rotted wood. By wood rot, i dont mean chipped paint, i mean wood that is soft and rotted out. Sounds like your home is on the newer end of the spectrum.
If you have dry wall returns and they are going the new construction route, they can still install with a flange and place the extension jamb over the existing sheet rock and then install interior moulding which created a " wood return". This way they arent tearing out all the sheet rock.
Some contractors leave all the dry wall, dont install any extension jamb but just remove exterior trim and install from the outside with a flange. Thats a semi new construction i suppose but the end result as far as a good seal is the same.

[erikbgt]

Thanks for the awesome feedback everyone I appreciate it.

I think let me see what the "new construction" quotes look like, but given the feedback of the OKNA Insultec for the price, that may be the winner.

[erikbgt]

Great feedback from the other pros above.
On the installation style, it probably is not NEEDED, although it is not just a sales gimmick either. Removing the cedar boards, cutting back the sheetrock, and installing the new unit with nail fin, flashing tape, etc is a superior installation.

Thanks this is super helpful - the 2 other contractors claimed that since I had the single pane contractor grade aluminum frame windows with the flange you can't cut them out, so not sure why the others said I could. So far visibly there is no wood rot, but never know of course.

[masterext]

Those flanges can still be cut.