Help with replacement windows.

A place to ask all your replacement window questions
Post Reply
Message
Author
slowgsxr97
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:16 pm

Help with replacement windows.

#1 Post by slowgsxr97 » Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:58 pm

Im getting ready to attempt to put windows in my house. I have remodeled the whole house. Windows are the last on my list. "should have been first, there HORRIBLE!" I also have a double window, and also a picture window with 2 small side ones. But those will wait until last.

I need help with getting proper measurements. I will attach some pictures. The house is brick with 4x8 block walls, with small gap between them. I have replaced all the doors and had to tapcon the jambs directly to the block. The interior of the windows is not cased like a normal home. Ideally I would like to pull the windows out from the outside and keep the existing trim inside to try to keep from plaster damage.

It looks like the windows are secured directly to the block wall. Basically could you experienced window guys tell me what my best options are gonna be here? Thanks in advance, Jeff

Image
Image
Image
Image

Delaware Mike
Posts: 742
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am
Location: South Jersey, Delaware, Philadelphia area

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#2 Post by Delaware Mike » Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:52 pm

Just did the exact same project this weekend. Block construction with brick facing. They did have mostly sheetrock with some plaster in rooms there weren't updated. There was about a 6" gap underneath all of old window frames. This particular homeowner's old wood late 50's era wood windows were barely tacked to random wood nailers that were loosely attached to the masonry openings. What held the old windows in place was basically the exterior brick molding and caulking along with the interior modern/ranch casings, no shims or anchors. Fun.

I retrofitted OKNA Envirostar 800dx along with a 3-lite Sunrise Vanguard slider to match the new 3.50" feather edge casings.

If the link below works you can view the before and after gallery. You could do the same with the addition of some rotted wood repairs and definitely exterior aluminum capping. The capping is the challenge for the do-it-yourselfer as they have to know how to work a siding brake or know someone just willing to the aluminum work for them. I can tell you exactly how to measure.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Flath%2080 ... %20gallery

Delaware Mike
Posts: 742
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am
Location: South Jersey, Delaware, Philadelphia area

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#3 Post by Delaware Mike » Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:54 pm

Sorry about the color. The color is fine when I'm logged in to my Dropbox account. I'm not sure what the link is doing to the color?

slowgsxr97
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:16 pm

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#4 Post by slowgsxr97 » Wed Jun 15, 2016 6:59 am

Thanks for the reply. I can't seem to open the link. I'm pretty confident the block opening is 33" wide. Just not sure of height. Should it be stripped all the way to the block opening?

User avatar
Windows on Washington
Posts: 4344
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:23 am
Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#5 Post by Windows on Washington » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:34 am

Doesn't have to be and in many cases it won't net you a larger opening as the stud framing is inset of that brick to brick measurement.

Are you doing an insert installation here?

slowgsxr97
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:16 pm

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#6 Post by slowgsxr97 » Thu Jun 16, 2016 7:54 am

Windows on Washington wrote:Doesn't have to be and in many cases it won't net you a larger opening as the stud framing is inset of that brick to brick measurement.

Are you doing an insert installation here?
Just standard replacement windows. If that's what insert means. I'd like too. But open to any suggestions and tips. Ideally my first thought was to take it bare block opening and tap von some 2x6s in there, and order replacements for that size so there actually pretty secure.

TheWindowNerd
Posts: 1681
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 3:05 pm
Location: SE PA & NJ; DFW/Metroplex

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#7 Post by TheWindowNerd » Thu Jun 16, 2016 4:45 pm

If i was going to rip out the old down to the MO/RO I would not buck the opening. I would tapcon the new full size units in, foam the perimeter, add jamb extensions and trim out the interior.

theWindowNerd.

slowgsxr97
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:16 pm

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#8 Post by slowgsxr97 » Fri Jun 17, 2016 6:52 pm

Delaware Mike wrote:Just did the exact same project this weekend. Block construction with brick facing. They did have mostly sheetrock with some plaster in rooms there weren't updated. There was about a 6" gap underneath all of old window frames. This particular homeowner's old wood late 50's era wood windows were barely tacked to random wood nailers that were loosely attached to the masonry openings. What held the old windows in place was basically the exterior brick molding and caulking along with the interior modern/ranch casings, no shims or anchors. Fun.

I retrofitted OKNA Envirostar 800dx along with a 3-lite Sunrise Vanguard slider to match the new 3.50" feather edge casings.

If the link below works you can view the before and after gallery. You could do the same with the addition of some rotted wood repairs and definitely exterior aluminum capping. The capping is the challenge for the do-it-yourselfer as they have to know how to work a siding brake or know someone just willing to the aluminum work for them. I can tell you exactly how to measure.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Flath%2080 ... %20gallery

Do you have another link for the pics? Also measurement tips?

Delaware Mike
Posts: 742
Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 10:44 am
Location: South Jersey, Delaware, Philadelphia area

Re: Help with replacement windows.

#9 Post by Delaware Mike » Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:02 pm

Try this link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/windowpro42/

I just uploaded that project similar to yours. I opted for a retrofit pocket insert replacement sized window for this project. If the basic wood frame is sort of okay, and it's just the brickmolding and sill nosing that's bad, a replacement window would work. The capping or lack there of is the tricky part. Installing cellular PVC brickmold is an options but that doesn't really cover how to handle the exterior stops. On my job we pulled all of the interior trim and installed new oak casings and field routed stools. Exterior stops were left in place and I capped everything and finished off with OSI Quad.

To size for replacement I've found that era of window runs on an even inch in terms of width sizing. The original wood windows had a width of either 28" or 32". This measurement was taken as an inside jamb to jamb dimension. One can measure from the interior exposed vertical wood that is exposed from the stops as there should be a small approximate 1/8" reveal to see the frame. You may confirm this with taking the tape measure tightly into the aluminum balance tracks that house the coil springs. The measurement should be the same at the top and bottom. With either a 28" or 32" recorded measure most of us will deduct a total of 1/4" off that dimension. The tip to tip make sizing of the windows for this project were 27.750" and 31.750". I had taken a little extra off the height for out of level sills and had the windows made on a 1/2" mark. Make sizing on these units was 37.50" and 45.50" Most window pros will take three different measurements for the height by pulling from the highest point of the sill as it meets the stool and goes up to the head. I typically take off 1/4" to 3/8". Real out of level sills might have 1/2" taken off the make size.

Post Reply