86 x 42 storm window question..

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Hello.

Iv neglected a storm window problem for a while since I didn't know if I would keep my house through a inevitable divorce. Now that the divorce is over and I own the home again, I need to take care of a rotten storm frame due to the window well not being deep enough which I have now re-dug deeper and wider. It rarely snows enough to fill the window well to the frame now. I don't think the water damage reached the main window behind the storm, but I'm not sure. I'm more concerned that the water may have entered the furred out wall inside because the concrete opening is flat, not pitched out on the bottom.

Can I tear out only the storms and the frames without disturbing the main window behind them? I believe the wooden frames are custom cut to fit the concrete opening and the storm windows. If that's the case, can I remove the storms and frames and rip a new frame and remount the old storms?

Or is this a losing battle since the window is on the west side of my home and gets allot of weather?

Thanks!

[Windows on Washington]

Impossible to tell until you get into it.

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Impossible to tell until you get into it.

Thanks wow.

Even though I feel I could replace the storm frame myself. I still have the root cause of the failure which was the flat concrete sub-sill which wont shed water.

I guess I could grind a slope with a diamond blade?

The other half of me says hire a professional. But with all the horror stories, its hard to trust anyone in my home.

Is there a thread discussing how to screen potential contractors in the Iowa City Iowa area?

Should I simply figure out who sells and installs Sunrise and Okna and run from there?

Thanks

[HomeSealed]

As WoW stated, it is impossible to say, but by looking at it I'd say that you can probably ditch the old storms and exterior mull cap and replace without needing to do the prime window. The wood window sill will have slope, so unless that is rotted through (which is not visible in the pics), you should not have water intrusion in the wall. The masonry ledge is rather small and not a concern IMO.

On the first pic, did you dig out some of that soft wood, or is that what it looks like organically? If the latter, it almost looks like some pests might be involved as opposed to strictly moisture.

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As WoW stated, it is impossible to say, but by looking at it I'd say that you can probably ditch the old storms and exterior mull cap and replace without needing to do the prime window. The wood window sill will have slope, so unless that is rotted through (which is not visible in the pics), you should not have water intrusion in the wall. The masonry ledge is rather small and not a concern IMO.

On the first pic, did you dig out some of that soft wood, or is that what it looks like organically? If the latter, it almost looks like some pests might be involved as opposed to strictly moisture.

Thanks Homesealed.

I did dig out the rotten parts and was thinking about filling them with Rock Hard again. Except its much worse now and I know RockHard is only a temporary fix.

The Prime window and sill look fine to me. But I can see from the outside where the caulk had failed and allowed water in and Down. There is a step down in the concrete sub-sill.

Im at a loss right now as I have zero experience on how windows are installed in a concrete wall. And how I can remove the storm frame without prying on and damaging the prime window.

I did contact Okna, who referred me to city builders in cedar falls Iowa. City Builders, who have a few good reviews on google and BBB A+ rating, said they do plenty of work in Iowa City, but scoffed when I said I need only one window.

I would rather just buy a good storm window already the correct size, than try and reinstall the glass into new frames.

There.. Done

[Windows on Washington]

Pull the storms, repair or replace the sill, replace the window (insert is probably fine) and cap the openings. Should be good to go at that point.

[Window4U (IL)]

You may find that storm windows are more expensive these days than you may expect. Since storm windows are not part of my business I was shocked the last time I priced them. For many people, the 2-3 hundred or more spent getting a storm window installed might better be put towards a new window.
Just a thought if you find them real spendy...

[TheWindowNerd]

As Homesealed stated, from the pictures it loos like the 5/4 mull casing needs to be replaced.
The original wood twin DH would normally have a nailer against the concrete for the exterior casing of the wood prime window to be nailed against, most commonly done with a 16# common nailed through the face of the exterior casing, then puttied over and painted many times over the years.
The wood storm window with inserts is probably nailed or screwed through the face into the storm window stop on the prime window or toe nailed. It can be carefully removed.
I am surprised there is not more rot as I do not see any weep holes in the storm frame.
If you order aluminum triple tracks the material cost is ~ $125 per, you need two.
It is a small volume project and you will be lucky to find some one to do just the install for $300.

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It is a small volume project and you will be lucky to find some one to do just the install for $300.

Yes that's what I'm learning. Ive talked to two different window contractors who blew me off already.

It looks like I'm on my own and I'm worried I will break the storm removing it. I would rather have a new aluminum storm in hand before I start and will research aluminum triple track from Quantum, Provia, Allied, Mon-Ray like WOW suggested. Any suggestions for the PVC sill here in the USA?
https://www.gap.uk.com/order-online/window-accessories/window-sills

Thanks!

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I checked around for Quantum, Provia, Allied, Mon-Ray and found the local company knebelwindows, who deals with Provia and Mon-Ray storms. But when I sent them the pictures, Dan Knebel wants to sell me a new window because, and I now have to agree, the prime window isn't in the best of shape. Knebelwindows sell vinyl windows from Lindsay and ProVia.

Should I consider Lindsay and ProVia vinyl window even though there not the Okna , Sunrise or softlite Ive heard you guys recommend? Or keep looking?

Thanks again!

[Windows on Washington]

Don't know the Lindsay, but the Provia is a decent window.

If you like the installer and he is qualified, that is certainly a big part of the equation.

[HomeSealed]

+1. Provia's vinyl offering is solid, as are Sunrise and Softlite

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I received a reply from knebel windows who gave me a estimate..

"For the ProVia Endure (the upper line) windows installed you’d be about $2100.00.
If we changed to a mid grade from either ProVia or Lindsay, the overall price would drop about $ 50.00 – 100.00.
This price includes factory stained or painted interior trim, all vinyl exterior trim, and all necessary materials.
The windows have sloped sills and the exterior sill nose we would install will be sloped. This would address your concerns at the bottom of the concrete opening.
As long as these are not in a bedroom, we can use the double hung windows.

Thanks"


Holy cow.. Over two grand? And I had no idea double hungs are not suitable as a egress window for this basement bedroom. The home was bought as a 4 bedroom. Now I learn it was non conforming.

Suggestions, comments?

[Windows on Washington]

Full tear outs with stained interior trim make the pricing more in range.

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Full tear outs with stained interior trim make the pricing more in range.

I don't have a problem paying for quality. But didn't expect $2100 especially when I initially figured all I needed was a storm. The DH pisses me off because this home was advertised as four bedroom, yet the fourth was non conforming.

Moving forward.. knebel windows recommends either a cheaper sliding window, or a two panel casement window.

Which one do you prefer? But looking closer. I don't think a casement would open fully before hitting the window well even after I enlarged it.