pvc casings

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bbxrider
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 7:06 pm

pvc casings

#1 Post by bbxrider »

I have jeld-wen 2500 series vinyl block frame replacement windows going in a house with exterior stucco walls.
I want to put a 'plastic' (opposed to wood) material for the exterior casings which will be about 3" wide. I would use screws and OSI quad Max 5x sealant to attach the casing to the stucco and position on the block frame, and use a bead of sealant where the casing contacts with the block frame.

decent looking options I have seen so are:
1.Veranda brand (home depot) pvc boards, 1/2 x 12 x 8' , I would rip them down to 3" widths
here is the HD link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-1-2 ... lsrc=aw.ds
2. Azek 3/8, (or 1/2) 4' x 8' white pvc sheets, I would rip 3" strips from the sheet

Would prefer the Azek 3/8" for looks but am open to the 1/2" thickness if that is needed for stability

my questions are if anybody has ripped this type of pvc material and how the ripped side comes out for smoothness etc.? can it be buffed or polished somewhat?
would probably use my 5" circular saw with a guide and something like a 80 tooth, or higher if needed blade.

also wondering how stable the pvc in these small thickness sizes is going to be in hot (105+) sacramento CA.
can I even miter the corners or would they warp out of place in the heat? I could just square butt the corners
they are not that visible. it is my current understanding that the pvc can be screwed and perhaps with the 1/2" thick board to counter sink the screw hole and put a plug to completely cover it.
thanks for the help!

Bobert
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2019 11:11 pm

Re: pvc casings

#2 Post by Bobert »

I used PVC boards for the window sills inside the house where my kids like to leave cold drinks. They have held up well, but when cut are foamy inside. I don't think I'd want to rip them. I'd consider finding vinyl boards the width you need or use Hardie trim. Also, check with building supply houses and not the big box stores for more options.

WindowsDirectCinci
Posts: 251
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2016 2:46 pm

Re: pvc casings

#3 Post by WindowsDirectCinci »

I’ve ripped them down, not fun! They sort of melt back together if you don’t immediately seperate the pieces you ripped down. Also if your going to paint them it may be fine but it does discolor the material as the blade almost burns the pvc. I know they come in different widths so I’d opt for the size you need instead of ripping even though it may cost a little more. Also make sure it is fastened very well to the wall, I have it around my basement door that is protected by a 25’ covered porch and it has twisted and flared up some, I wouldn’t use those materials in that application. There are some nice extruded vinyl options out there on some brands but not sure about aftermarket

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HomeSealed
Posts: 2996
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:46 pm
Location: Milwaukee, Madison, SE Wisconsin

Re: pvc casings

#4 Post by HomeSealed »

This not going to be an area that you want to "cheap out", and the prescribed methods kind of sound like that. Exterior trim boards take a lot of abuse from the elements and will need an appropriate thickness, 5/4" being most popular, with nominal 2" thickness not being entirely uncommon. 1/2" is used in some cases, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially not in a vinyl product and in your climate. 3/8" will look wavy and be ready for replacement before you even complete the install.

A few other thoughts:
-ripping this material will be tricky as other posters described. I'd recommend purchasing lengths of the material in the finished width that you need.

-it sounds to me like you would just be screwing these boards on top of the stucco? I can see some issues with that, as while I run from jobs that have stucco involved, most siding/wall cladding systems will abut the window trim, not sit under it. In addition to not tying in to the wall's water management system (flashings, housewrap, etc), there will likely be a gap to bridge from the exterior window frame to the window trim, unless you set the windows flush with the stucco's face which sounds questionable as well.

There are some red flags here I have to say. Many professionals avoid stucco when possible because there are just too many potential problems (some homeowner's insurance companies won't even insure stucco homes), so you may want to reconsider what sounds like a diy project here. Just my $.02

bbxrider
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 7:06 pm

Re: pvc casings

#5 Post by bbxrider »

thanks for all the replies, now I can better see the need for more thickness, both azek and versatex list a 5/8 x 3.5 which sounds like the same board since it seems azek has bought versatex. however, my local distributor said they can't get them.
HD has pvc boards called Veranda, they sound ok and would seem to be the same as the azek, and are 3/4" thick and for what its worth have real good reviews at least on the HD website. Going to buy a 6 pack to see hands on
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4 ... 848439-_-N

I'm afraid I'm stucko with the stucco, unless I want to reclad the entire house which is not an option. the existing casing is wood brick mold with a 3/8" wide channel in the middle of the outside edge, which is 1-1/4" thick. Evidently it was nailed on over the tar paper covered 3/4" redwood board sheathing. no flashing on this 1948 built house. the stucco was laid up to the molding and pressed into the channel, its about 1" thick. the molding edge is shy of 1/4" higher than the stucco. I'm going to belt sand the off of the moulding so it is flat and flush with the stucco. the window frame is set to be flush with stucco/molding. I will set the pvc casing 3/4" onto the window frame with window sealant and also get a bead on the side of window frame and casing inside corner. securing the pvc trim with 2 beads of sealant, one on the 1 5/8" (now flat) wide casing and exterior finish nails and another bead on the outside edge of the pvc where it is contacting the stucco. where the pvc trim sits on the window frame and on the stucco apply exterior caulk


can I expand this thread to ask if any body here has experience with Prosoco "Fast Flash" and "Joint and Seam Filler" they seem ideal for bridging gaps. if not I will start a new thread

WindowsDirectCinci
Posts: 251
Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2016 2:46 pm

Re: pvc casings

#6 Post by WindowsDirectCinci »

We replace stucco with out any issue here. Just take your time. I haven't used any of those products so i can't help there.

PMA
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed May 29, 2019 12:30 pm

Re: pvc casings

#7 Post by PMA »

I just finished up a 80x10 porch using azek PVC products. Things to know about pvc:
1. You can ABSOLUTELY RIP it, route it, cut it, sand the edges. Any way you like. Hand saw, 18v battery tool, circular saw, or table saw... it's very easy to work with.

DO NOT use an 80tpi blade, or it will melt like others have said. I used standard framing blades with no problems at all. Even using my router by hand to work out spots around framing hangers.

2. All brands of PVC move A LOT! Expansion and contraction can be extreme. On a 10ft run I've seen more than 1/4 in movement from a 50 deg night to an 90 deg day here in the Chicago area. This stuff has to be physically attached solid. Caulks, glues, even 16ga Brad's may not be enough if there's a large swing in temps. On a 6in board most manufacturers recommend 2 fasteners every 16 in and PVC glued to reduce the movement.

Block work and stucco will make that real challening if there isn't a wood substrate to attach to....

Its excellent material. But there are challenges..

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Windows on Washington
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Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC

Re: pvc casings

#8 Post by Windows on Washington »

Good follow up and information. Thanks for posting this up. Hope this will help future DIY'ers.

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