Hi all,
I've decided to have a go at replacing a window myself. I've done many moderate reno projects so I'm quite capable.
My house is from the 50s and is the exterior siding is Asbestos Cement planks over felt and some kind of sheathing. I'm not really sure what the sheathig is. It's a black compressed soft material. The window's are single pane aluminum slides.
Anyway my plan is the to do the following:
1. Carefully remove enough of the siding around the window to expose the fins and then remove the window.
2. Install sill pan from jamsill on the sill with lip on top of felt.
3. Use peel and stick flashing on the rough opening side and cover sides of jamsill pan.
4 Run a bead of caulk on the sides and top window fins.
5. Install window with side fins over the felt paper and to fin under felt paper. Make sure it is level and plum.
6. Install peel and stick flashing on sides and then across top
7. Install a pvc trim around window caulk sides and top of trim to flashing and leave bottom uncaulked.
I was hoping some of you pros out there could tell me if I'm missing any steps? Also I'm gong to use Azek trim to surround the window. I was going use some 3 1/2" casing for the sides and top and the some nosing for the sill.
Thanks!
Window Install Questions
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Window Install Questions
You probably don't have an existing nailing flange but you sound like you have a good handle on it already.
How are you planning on removing the siding around the windows. If you are cutting it, you need to add a couple of layers of procedure to ensure that the dust does not get released into the environment.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywjHRcwOFbM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpqJxbk5 ... re=related
Couple of good flashing detail vids.
How are you planning on removing the siding around the windows. If you are cutting it, you need to add a couple of layers of procedure to ensure that the dust does not get released into the environment.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywjHRcwOFbM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpqJxbk5 ... re=related
Couple of good flashing detail vids.
Re: Window Install Questions
Thanks for the info. Those videos were extremely helpful. I'm not planning on cutting the siding. They are 12" x 24" planks held in with 3 nails. It is very easy to gently pry out the shingles. I've also found a manufacture that makes non asbestos replacements that I'll cut to fit the new window.
I have two questions though.
One of the videos recommends putting in a few shims to keep the window off the sill pan. If I do that with a slider window will it sag down the line?
When I install the pvc trim should I only nail the sides and top pieces in place? I'm worried if I nail the sill, I could penetrate the jamsill and defeat it's purpose. The sill will be attached to the side pieces with pocket screws and glue. Also after the siding is installed do I caulk the gap between the sill and siding or leave that open for drainage?
Thanks,
Michael
I have two questions though.
One of the videos recommends putting in a few shims to keep the window off the sill pan. If I do that with a slider window will it sag down the line?
When I install the pvc trim should I only nail the sides and top pieces in place? I'm worried if I nail the sill, I could penetrate the jamsill and defeat it's purpose. The sill will be attached to the side pieces with pocket screws and glue. Also after the siding is installed do I caulk the gap between the sill and siding or leave that open for drainage?
Thanks,
Michael
Re: Window Install Questions
As for shims, if you are using a wood window to go in, then yes, you should shim it because you don't want the window sitting in water if it gets behind the window. If Vinyl, then no you don't have to.
- TheWindowNerd
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- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 3:05 pm
- Location: SE PA & NJ; DFW/Metroplex
Re: Window Install Questions
If that is true you need to use water proof shims.TLHWINDOW wrote:As for shims, if you are using a wood window to go in, then yes, you should shim it because you don't want the window sitting in water if it gets behind the window. If Vinyl, then no you don't have to.
- Windows on Washington
- Posts: 5310
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:23 am
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
Re: Window Install Questions
The one video shows them using Azek strips.
Non compressive, inorganic, and non absorptive to water were the qualifying traits.
Non compressive, inorganic, and non absorptive to water were the qualifying traits.
Re: Window Install Questions
Sorry, yes, you should use a shim that is in-organic and not flexible. I should have said that.
- TheWindowNerd
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- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 3:05 pm
- Location: SE PA & NJ; DFW/Metroplex
Re: Window Install Questions
Your existing windows are flanged.
If when you work with the rigid shingles you can find an old asbestos siding cutter, they are nice because they nibble the cuts and can punch new nail holes, other wise you will make alot of dust cutting with an abrasive blade.
Yes you will need to fasten the sill trim to solid substrate, You would not have to caulk the siding to the sill trim if you lap/dado the sill trim over the siding.
If when you work with the rigid shingles you can find an old asbestos siding cutter, they are nice because they nibble the cuts and can punch new nail holes, other wise you will make alot of dust cutting with an abrasive blade.
Yes you will need to fasten the sill trim to solid substrate, You would not have to caulk the siding to the sill trim if you lap/dado the sill trim over the siding.