Measurement Question

[Harsh]

I am looking to buy some Anderson 400 Woodwright windows. I measured from the head jamb to sill (directly behind the stool) and get a measurement of 54.5". Anderson's measurement guide and the program used by Home Depot only subtract 1/4" from the measurement. Is that going to allow enough room to tilt the window into its opening? If it matters I am planning on doing the installation from the inside. To me and the folks that work at HD that just doesn't seem like enough room. I tried calling Anderson, but the reps I spoke to were clueless.

[Windows on Washington]

The window needs to be raised up prior to tilting in so there should be more than enough room to tilt in.

[HomeSealed]

Generally you want a little bit more space than that on the height, I'd do a 1/2" cutback... Did you measure the diagonals, etc to insure that the opening is square or close to it? If you aren't sure why or how to do that, just google how to measure a replacement window... otherwise, that info is probably somewhere on this site... 54.5 seems like a strange size to me, as 54" is a very common height, and the cutback is usually applied to that. Take a measurement at each side and in the middle to confirm. Measure twice, order once.

Wow- I think he meant "tipping" it in during install, as opposed to tilt-in for cleaning. At least thats they way I took it.

[Windows on Washington]

Yes...I see that now. The flu is scrambling my brain.

54" window is a pretty common size. When we measure we are typically at 53 5/8ths of 53 1/2"

[Harsh]

Yes I meant tipping it in for installation vice tilting it out for cleaning. The replacement windows will be insert (pocket) windows vice full frame.

I know it seems like a weird size, but it is accurate. I measured in three places for both width and height as well as checking for square. On only a couple of windows was there any difference between the measurement points and those were right at or less that 1/8" so I went with the smallest measurement.

FWIW my house was built in 1924 and still has the original windows.

I thought basically the same thing about the cut back, but according to Anderson's documentation they only say 1/4". I just don't want to buy a bunch of non-returnable windows and have them not able to slip into the opening. Additionally, I don't want to add too much of a cutback and be left with a huge gap. I am just leery of venturing away from what the manufacturer states to do.

Here is the link to Anderson's measurement guide.
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/ ... inary=true

I guess if worse comes to worse I could always cut out the exterior stops and install the windows from the outside. Doing that would allow me to basically push the window straight in.

[HomeSealed]

If you are worried about measuring too small and having a gap, all you have to do is measure from finished trim on one side to the finished trim on the other side (or top and bottom)... Then as long as your new window is larger than that, it will be covered and no gap will be seen. Does that make sense? Wow's measurement was right on... Typically if I have a 36 x 54 window, I'll order 35 5/8 x 53 5/8. I rarely ever take EXACT measurements because I know that with that cutback, it will be covered on all sides by the trim AND give me enough room to make sure the new window is installed square.

[Harsh]

Thanks for the help fellas and yes HS your suggestion makes perfect sense. I think I am going to go ahead and take 3/8" off all around like you guys suggest. I have to admit though that I am still questioning why Anderson says to take off 1/4" from the height yet have you subtract 3/8" from the width. In my line of work (Aviation Electronics Tech in the Navy) we follow the instructions for fixing things so it is hard for me to deviate from what the manufacturer states to do.

[Harsh]

Just got off the phone again with Anderson. This time I was provided some assistance. They state that the 1/4" cut back was the best as limiting air infiltration and condensation. They also say that you can go up to 1/2" but do not recommend anything more than that. This along with your previous suggestions makes me feel a whole lot better at shortening the window.

[HomeSealed]

They want to minimize the gap for that reason, however I'd prefer a little more wiggle room, especially for a home built in 1924. In addition, proper use of a closed cell, low expansion foam in that gap instead of fiberglass, will eliminate any air infiltration from that area.... In that time period, most homes have the old "weight & pulley" balance system. I'd also recommend filling these weight pockets with foam for additional insulation and mitigation of air leakage. There are typically one or two access panels in the side jambs, as well as the hole where you remove the pulley. You can drill additional holes if necessary.

[Harsh]

I have already purchased a number of cans of the low expansion foam to use in the gaps and the pockets for the weights.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I ordered the windows this afternoon and can't wait for them to come in so I can get down to business.

[Windows on Washington]

You will probably be better served to just invest in a foam gun applicator as opposed to the straw units. You get a little bang for the buck per can and the application is much better controlled.

Plan on burning through some decent amount on the weight boxes. You don't have to fill those entire boxes with foam as it is probably overkill but it is easier to fill with foam as opposed to fiberglass.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Harsh]

Where can I get a foam gun applicator?

I will definitely let you know how it goes.

[TheWindowNerd]

Foam guns= google search.
or a professional supply yard ( siding/roofing/windows).

[Harsh]

OK, I have been to or called every place in my area and no one stocks the gun or the foam. So I am planning on ordering online. However, I am in a dilemma. I don't know how much foam or cleaner to order. I don't want to start and then run out and on the flip side I don't want to end up with a lot of extra material. How many cans would it take the fill the pockets in one window and how much cleaner is used to clean out the gun after each use? I pretty much over engineer everything I do so I am planning on completely filling the pocket.

[HomeSealed]

You definitely dont need more than one can of cleaner, as you'll only need to use it when the job is done. As for the foam, I did not see how many windows you had. Typically, a can will last a few jobs, however the weight pockets really burn up a lot. If you want to be totally safe, order 5 or 6, however its likely that 2-3 will do the job--- unless you have 15 + openings.