silverlines in new construction cabin

[mbor2081]

OK, I've tried to do my due diligence in research, but I'm still coming up short. I got all the silverline 1200 windows I could ever possibly want for the hunting cabin I'm building and I got them for next to nothing...'bout $25 ea. I'm building this cabin from the ground up and while I'm quite comfortable framing, hanging doors, siding, plumbing, electrical etc, the one area that I'm weak on is window installation. I understand the flashing concept and will install accordingly. I am installing Hardiplank siding on the outside and currently, the interior will probaby be sheetrock, but that may change to T&G planking.

So my questions: How exactly do I install these replacement windows (box frame) with no nailing flange (and no hope of adding one)? With the box frame 3.25" deep, should the window frame be flush with the outer sheathing or recessed. If recessed, about how far? What do I do for a sill? Sub-sill? With the bottom of the box frame being parallel to the rough opening, how does any of that "silling" angle downward for drainage? Basically, I've looked at trim and sill and drip cap profiles 'til I'm ready to fall out and I'm still not sure what to use. Any help sure would be appreciated.

[TLHWINDOW]

My suggestion:

1st: Figure your final depth with the trim attached.

Then figure about 3/8 to 1/4" less and that will be your window setting depth. This allows you to caulk the perimiter of the window to the "inside" of the trim.

Install sill flashing, either tape or pan. On a box frame, I would recommend that you tape the entire inside frame of the opening, but many might call that overkill, so its up to you.

Install the window, straight, level etc.

Now, flash the window with tape, by basically folding the tape in half the long way and attaching it to the window and the buildings sheeting, like a new construction except you are "creating" the flange. I recommend using 8" tape for good coverage.

Next, put a drip pan over the window (If you are using house wrap, tuck the drip pan under the wrap). Then tape over the drip pan.

Install your trim and caulk.

Some will install the drip pan over the trim, which is fine, just as long as you do this to help shed any water that might get back there.

Good luck.

[Windows on Washington]

+1 to HomeSealed comments.

I would also inquire as the availability of a nailing flange clip in accessory if there is an accessory groove on the exterior of the frame of your window.

[TLHWINDOW]

+1 to HomeSealed comments.

I would also inquire as the availability of a nailing flange clip in accessory if there is an accessory groove on the exterior of the frame of your window.

Homesealed? Come on man!

Pretty sure the 1200 has no frame features what so ever. The most basic window ever made.

[mbor2081]

Thanks for the replies gang. Quick follow-up...there are no nailing flanges nor any that can be added. And yes, the 1200 is the most basic window EVER...but the price was too hard to pass up for just a hunting cabin.

TLHWindow....thanks for some of those suggestions. I like the idea of taping prior to trimming, in effect building a "nailing flange". Is there a preferred tape here...would the metal tape frequently used in AC vents work here?

So I should:
-Flash the rough opening, working around the Tyvek properly
-Wrap the whole perimeter with the folded tape
-Would it behoove me to put blind stops on the top and sides here?
-Trim it (any suggestions here...brick moulding or is there something better suited.)
-Caulk it

However all this leaves one thing out that I'm thoroughly lost on...the sill. Sure, I could rip some wood on the table saw to fabricate the angled sill and butt it up against the vinyl frame of the 1200, but is there anything that is commercially available that might work here? Again I've looked online at dozens of extrusion profiles, but none seem to be quite the right thing.

Thanks again to everybody.

[TLHWINDOW]

Sorry, meant to reply to this the other day.

If you are using hardy on the exterior, then I would just "picture" frame it. no need for a slated sill, just sit the window right on the rough opening after you have taped it off.

Then apply the everything else and then the outside trim.

[Windows on Washington]

+1

I would sill pan it for extra protection as a bonus if it were me but it is not a must. Just extra protection.

[Window4U (IL)]

Hunting cabins are supposed to be rustic, drafty and with leaky windows to let the extra heat from the wood stove out. Sounds like you've got the perfect windows.