Replacing windows in brick
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Replacing windows in brick
I'm looking for some advice on window installation in my 50 year old brick home. It's in desperate need of full window replacement. I already ordered an Andersen Woodwright double hung insert window to put in a bathroom in the back of the house. I decided this would be my "test" to install myself. I've read all the installation instructions for this window and several other brands online, and this replacement looks to be as simple as it gets.
Now the problem is my wife prefers casement windows for most of the house, and they don't make simple inserts for those. So I'm trying to figure out what it's going to take to install a window like this in my brick veneer house. I've gutted bathrooms and renovated walls before, so I think I'm up for the task, but if I'm going to open a hole in my house in the fall, I don't want to run into any big surprises. Andersen has "replacement" versions of the casement windows, which are basically the same as the regular ones except without the nailing flange. I understand how you should flash around the opening, but having a brick facade isn't so obvious to me. I've seen some examples online where people were able to get behind the brick. I've also seen way too many videos of novices doing absolutely no water management, and even screwing window frames directly into brick and adding some caulk to the cracks.
Getting to the interior side shouldn't be a problem. I don't like the ancient, plain trim that's on there now, so I figured I'd take that off to measure the rough opening. But what am I going to find at the exterior? I took some pics that I will attempt to show below. I'm hoping some people can make some good guesses as to what's in store for me.
Now the problem is my wife prefers casement windows for most of the house, and they don't make simple inserts for those. So I'm trying to figure out what it's going to take to install a window like this in my brick veneer house. I've gutted bathrooms and renovated walls before, so I think I'm up for the task, but if I'm going to open a hole in my house in the fall, I don't want to run into any big surprises. Andersen has "replacement" versions of the casement windows, which are basically the same as the regular ones except without the nailing flange. I understand how you should flash around the opening, but having a brick facade isn't so obvious to me. I've seen some examples online where people were able to get behind the brick. I've also seen way too many videos of novices doing absolutely no water management, and even screwing window frames directly into brick and adding some caulk to the cracks.
Getting to the interior side shouldn't be a problem. I don't like the ancient, plain trim that's on there now, so I figured I'd take that off to measure the rough opening. But what am I going to find at the exterior? I took some pics that I will attempt to show below. I'm hoping some people can make some good guesses as to what's in store for me.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
Are you asking about cutting a new hole in the wall?
In terms of water management, you flashing details are designed to be applied to the stick framing of the home as there is going to be moisture movement behind the brick.
As it pertains to that window, the easiest thing to do would be to do insert casements and just pull the storm, stops, and sashes to create your new opening. Be sure to seal between the old wood frame and the new insert frame.
Re-caulk those brick moulding connections to the brick for proper seal. Check the slope on the brick sill as well and I recommend that you seal those brick sills with some sort of water penetration barrier.
Check that opening for lead paint and handle accordingly. Capping (trim wrapping) would be preferable in this case.
In terms of water management, you flashing details are designed to be applied to the stick framing of the home as there is going to be moisture movement behind the brick.
As it pertains to that window, the easiest thing to do would be to do insert casements and just pull the storm, stops, and sashes to create your new opening. Be sure to seal between the old wood frame and the new insert frame.
Re-caulk those brick moulding connections to the brick for proper seal. Check the slope on the brick sill as well and I recommend that you seal those brick sills with some sort of water penetration barrier.
Check that opening for lead paint and handle accordingly. Capping (trim wrapping) would be preferable in this case.
- HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
I would have to agree with WoW. Looks like a good candidate for an "replacement-style" install. A full tear-out can be a little trickier with a setup like that, being that you can't just easily slap on a finned window.
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
Nah, I didn't mean I would be putting in a new hole. I meant that if I do pull out the whole window frame then I'll be stuck with that windowless hole in my wall with no going back.
I was afraid that I'd be stuck having to go with inserts. The Andersen windows we wanted don't have inserts for casements, but I can do the double hungs.
Make I can do a little more investigating with a garage window, which looks to be built the same way since it's an attached garage. I can deal with a temporary piece of plywood there if something goes awry .
I was afraid that I'd be stuck having to go with inserts. The Andersen windows we wanted don't have inserts for casements, but I can do the double hungs.
Make I can do a little more investigating with a garage window, which looks to be built the same way since it's an attached garage. I can deal with a temporary piece of plywood there if something goes awry .
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
I just read the article below that seemed to be doing what I think needs to be done with my house. Does this seem normal? I'd worry about not having much room to get behind the brick. Plus, figuring out what size the window needs to be isn't as straightforward.
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/cgi-bi ... .pl?id=149
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/cgi-bi ... .pl?id=149
- HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
Those steps are correct, but measuring and installing are easier said than done.... Using the garage as a guinea pig would not be a bad idea if you are set on doing it that way.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
+1HomeSealed wrote:Those steps are correct, but measuring and installing are easier said than done.... Using the garage as a guinea pig would not be a bad idea if you are set on doing it that way.
Correct but not easy by any stretch.
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
AW does make a special sized non fin casement.
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
The old wood looks fine. I'd recommend an insert window in a heartbeat. You can always change out the interior trim if you want a completely new look. My two cents.
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
Yes, but they aren't "insert" windows to pop inside your existing frame, as far as I can tell. Those replacement casements are easier to fasten, but you still have to do all the flashing if I'm not mistaken.anthony wrote:AW does make a special sized non fin casement.
I ordered insert double hung windows for some of the rear windows. A month for delivery is annoying!
I do have one window sill near the ground that is rotted out in the corner. I just found out that there is wood repair epoxy that should work in situations like this. I think the damage was because of the gutter pulling away from the house above that window, which made a big mess against the house there. I just got that gutter repaired this week.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
How do you propose to get a window with a nailing fin into a brick opening?
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
The "insert" casement requires no more "flashing than the insert DH. The AW insert DH does not have a fin.
- HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
That wood epoxy is lipstick on a pig. I'd would definitely recommend removing and replacing rotted wood. It does not need to look pretty it it will be capped, but if not, get some azek or other composite option.
- Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
+1HomeSealed wrote:That wood epoxy is lipstick on a pig. I'd would definitely recommend removing and replacing rotted wood. It does not need to look pretty it it will be capped, but if not, get some azek or other composite option.
Best to go composite on the sections that touch the brick. They cannot absorb the capillary movement of water through the brick.
- TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing windows in brick
Interesting that the 50 year old windows have so little rot. Most of it probably caused by the storm windows and cloged weep holes.
Got to love that old growth timber, sure am happy that the owls have a happy home these days.
Got to love that old growth timber, sure am happy that the owls have a happy home these days.