Can I get away with not cutting the returns for replacement windows?

[djdonte]

I am installing fin-less replacement windows in my brick facade home with drywall interior returns. Measuring the depth of my old aluminum window and the new window, the new single hung is 1 11/32" thicker. Should I trim the drywall so the outside edge of the new window sits roughly in the same spot as the old window, or can the new window sit that much further out? It's not awful to trim the drywall with a multi tool and a shop vac as I did it for my finned windows but if I can get away without, that would be nice.

Additionally does anyone have a recommendation for mid-grade window brands? My builder supply sold me some MI Windows. She says they are builder grade, and the first few I ordered were fine, but the next two were pretty sloppy looking as far as the silicone they used to seal everything up. Most of my sills are less than 18" from the floor so I need tempered glass which really jumps the price up.

[TheWindowNerd]

Being less than 18" from the floor is not the only determining factor for safety glazing.
Les than 18" to floor and over 9 sq feet is the code.
So a double or single hung 36" x 70"" would not require tempered
formula: measure the visible glass w x h= x divided by 144 will give the sq feet. If over 9sq feet order with tempered glass.
If a DH or SH you only need to order tempered for the lower sash.

You can let the window frame set further out into the brick frame. You may have issues with the preplaced screw holes. Either angle the screws, redrill holes, use trim head screws to suck through the first wall, or make a clip.

[HomeSealed]

Code will vary by location. In WI, our UDC has no provision for tempered glass with any regard to its distance from the floor. Our company standard is to use the 18" rule (without the 9 sq ft qualifier) as best practice.
Point being, check with your local building inspector regarding what he will enforce.

Regarding the drywall cut back, two thoughts:
1) If you have other windows already cutback you may want to do it to match.
2) with regard to the exterior, we can't really say what is okay and what is not in terms of projection without knowing/seeing your home. I can say that I would NOT set the window in a way that the exterior edge of the frame projects out past the wall cladding. In fact, when installing without a nail fin, the further inward you can set that the better IMO. You mentioned brick, personally I'd rather not have that window project out into the brick, but its not necessarily incorrect either.

On product, the Sunrise line of MI is the only product that I'd use from that manufacturer. Outside of that, you may find some softlite models or Polaris at a local supply house depending on your location.

[Delaware Mike]

If you had to use something from the MI line, the 1650 would be the only one I'd use. I would cut back more of the jamb and stool area so that the window is into the rough opening verses sticking out too far into the brick returns and lintel area. You would be fine possibly jumping the old exterior caulking lines a tad as there is a balance between losing too much sheetrock return pocket area for the blinds. No one likes the larger blind brackets that once may have been mounted into the jamb extension or sheetrock returns so that the blinds now stick proud of the plane of the face of the walls or have to be mounted out of the pocket and onto the face of the sheetrock. If you have 2" x 6" walls you don't have to worry about that.

[TheWindowNerd]

The Op states he has brick facade.
There is plenty of room to put them in the MO. You might do a Randy, foam (you could also backer rod it and then foam) the air gap around the opening before installing the window. This will stop the free flowing air from bothering your new window.

You do have to decide about the continuity of appearance.

theWindowNerd

[WHITE GAS]

Code will vary by location. In WI, our UDC has no provision for tempered glass with any regard to its distance from the floor. Our company standard is to use the 18" rule (without the 9 sq ft qualifier) as best practice.
Point being, check with your local building inspector regarding what he will enforce.

Regarding the drywall cut back, two thoughts:
1) If you have other windows already cutback you may want to do it to match.
2) with regard to the exterior, we can't really say what is okay and what is not in terms of projection without knowing/seeing your home. I can say that I would NOT set the window in a way that the exterior edge of the frame projects out past the wall cladding. In fact, when installing without a nail fin, the further inward you can set that the better IMO. You mentioned brick, personally I'd rather not have that window project out into the brick, but its not necessarily incorrect either.

On product, the Sunrise line of MI is the only product that I'd use from that manufacturer. Outside of that, you may find some softlite models or Polaris at a local supply house depending on your location.

Reasoning behind not having window project out into the brick veneer?