Overwhelmed by replacement vinyl options

[icbia]

Hi,
Replacing 16 wood DH windows with vinyl in GA. Getting overwhelmed by options, would appreciate any insight on products/pricing. Under consideration from window install companies with good reviews:

Okna 500 - $14,800
Provia Endure - $13,800
Wincore 7700 - $12,300
Softlite Bainbridge - $11,500

All windows are double pane, Low E3. Softlite vendor proposed install from inside; all others install from outside with capping.
Thanks!

[Ricknez]

Im not a big wincore fan. The other 3 are better windows. Ive had experience with the Bainbridge and it's a pretty good window although I prefer their soft lite " elements" series. Inside install or outside install makes no difference as far as one being better than the other.

[TheWindowNerd]

Of those choices I would pick the OKNA 500DX.

[Windows on Washington]

Possible argument, value proposition wise, for the Bainbridge. It's not as good a window, but based on the price differential...possible consideration.

The others in close proximity, price wise, to the Okna whilst being lesser products, eliminate them from consideration in my opinion.

[TheWindowNerd]

If you want the Okna 500DX then ask the bidder to sharpen the pencil.
In our area the that might cost $13,500. wh/wh, DX, half screen, 101Ui or less, no tempered glass.

[HomeSealed]

The Okna 500 is the best window of the bunch, I don't think that anyone will debate that.

Bainbridge is not bad, but there are a couple things that give me pause. 1) The inside install, while not inherently wrong, is often an indicator of someone who is not a "pro's pro" when it comes to windows. It generally points to someone that doesn't have the equipment or skill (or both) to custom bend and install new aluminum trim to finish off and seal the opening. There are some considerations here if your home was built before 1978 and/or needs lead safe procedures as well which make an inside install impractical, unless the required procedures aren't being followed.
Lastly, $700-ish per window is a red flag as well, as that's not really sustainable pricing for anything but a "one man" operation these days.

I wouldn't consider provia or wincore personally.

Your pricing on the Okna is actually a little lower than it would be in my area. With that said, it's in the range that most would agree isn't alarming low or high, which is a good sign. It would be foolish and irresponsible of me (or anyone) to compare my exact pricing to a quote that you have received in a different area of the country, with no real knowledge of the details of the project or installation, nor knowledge of the type of company and scope of the operation proposing it.

[WHITE GAS]

The Okna 500 is the best window of the bunch, I don't think that anyone will debate that.

Bainbridge is not bad, but there are a couple things that give me pause. 1) The inside install, while not inherently wrong, is often an indicator of someone who is not a "pro's pro" when it comes to windows. It generally points to someone that doesn't have the equipment or skill (or both) to custom bend and install new aluminum trim to finish off and seal the opening. There are some considerations here if your home was built before 1978 and/or needs lead safe procedures as well which make an inside install impractical, unless the required procedures aren't being followed.
Lastly, $700-ish per window is a red flag as well, as that's not really sustainable pricing for anything but a "one man" operation these days.

I wouldn't consider provia or wincore personally.

Your pricing on the Okna is actually a little lower than it would be in my area. With that said, it's in the range that most would agree isn't alarming low or high, which is a good sign. It would be foolish and irresponsible of me (or anyone) to compare my exact pricing to a quote that you have received in a different area of the country, with no real knowledge of the details of the project or installation, nor knowledge of the type of company and scope of the operation proposing it.

If the replacement windows were measured correctly, why would aluminum trim need to be custom bent to seal the opening?

[WHITE GAS]

The Okna 500 is the best window of the bunch, I don't think that anyone will debate that.

Bainbridge is not bad, but there are a couple things that give me pause. 1) The inside install, while not inherently wrong, is often an indicator of someone who is not a "pro's pro" when it comes to windows. It generally points to someone that doesn't have the equipment or skill (or both) to custom bend and install new aluminum trim to finish off and seal the opening. There are some considerations here if your home was built before 1978 and/or needs lead safe procedures as well which make an inside install impractical, unless the required procedures aren't being followed.
Lastly, $700-ish per window is a red flag as well, as that's not really sustainable pricing for anything but a "one man" operation these days.

I wouldn't consider provia or wincore personally.

Your pricing on the Okna is actually a little lower than it would be in my area. With that said, it's in the range that most would agree isn't alarming low or high, which is a good sign. It would be foolish and irresponsible of me (or anyone) to compare my exact pricing to a quote that you have received in a different area of the country, with no real knowledge of the details of the project or installation, nor knowledge of the type of company and scope of the operation proposing it.

If the replacement windows were measured correctly, why would aluminum trim need to be custom bent to seal the opening?

Adding an additional piece of trim doubles the caulk joint, ie doubling the point of failure to the elements.

[Windows on Washington]

If the replacement windows were measured correctly, why would aluminum trim need to be custom bent to seal the opening?

The reasons can be multiple. Exterior openings are rarely square. Many times the RO and Exterior cladding openings are differential and require some sort of trim to complete the opening water management and drainage plane.

Most consumers want a maintenance free exterior (i.e. paint) so wood trim is clad with the enamel trim coil to eliminate that consumer required maintenance item.

Differences in wall depth allow for the installation of capping to complete that offset in a manner that keeps the water shedding to the outermost surface.

Wood rots on the cut ends of the joints. Cladding, applied correctly and in a shingled fashion, can negate that exposure weak point in the assembly.

That is just a few of the reasons.

[uncle eddie]

I don't think that I'd consider any of these but the okna tbh

[HomeSealed]

If the replacement windows were measured correctly, why would aluminum trim need to be custom bent to seal the opening?

The reasons can be multiple. Exterior openings are rarely square. Many times the RO and Exterior cladding openings are differential and require some sort of trim to complete the opening water management and drainage plane.

Most consumers want a maintenance free exterior (i.e. paint) so wood trim is clad with the enamel trim coil to eliminate that consumer required maintenance item.

Differences in wall depth allow for the installation of capping to complete that offset in a manner that keeps the water shedding to the outermost surface.

Wood rots on the cut ends of the joints. Cladding, applied correctly and in a shingled fashion, can negate that exposure weak point in the assembly.

That is just a few of the reasons.

Well stated.

I should also clarify that the trim is not NEEDED for a window install to be sealed, however there are benefits as WOW alluded to. My original point however was speaking more to type of contractor that doesn't include cladding as a general practice, as that is a red flag imo.

I don't follow the caulk joint comment. A piece of brickmold would be caulked on both sides, just the same as a piece of brickmold clad in aluminum.

[WHITE GAS]

If the replacement windows were measured correctly, why would aluminum trim need to be custom bent to seal the opening?

The reasons can be multiple. Exterior openings are rarely square. Many times the RO and Exterior cladding openings are differential and require some sort of trim to complete the opening water management and drainage plane.

Most consumers want a maintenance free exterior (i.e. paint) so wood trim is clad with the enamel trim coil to eliminate that consumer required maintenance item.

Differences in wall depth allow for the installation of capping to complete that offset in a manner that keeps the water shedding to the outermost surface.

Wood rots on the cut ends of the joints. Cladding, applied correctly and in a shingled fashion, can negate that exposure weak point in the assembly.

That is just a few of the reasons.

Well stated.

I should also clarify that the trim is not NEEDED for a window install to be sealed, however there are benefits as WOW alluded to. My original point however was speaking more to type of contractor that doesn't include cladding as a general practice, as that is a red flag imo.

I don't follow the caulk joint comment. A piece of brickmold would be caulked on both sides, just the same as a piece of brickmold clad in aluminum.

Double the caulking/Double the point of failure

[Windows on Washington]

I don't think you understood any of my previous post if that is your takeaway from that. Capping is an absolute necessity in a bunch of replacement applications. Tucking the capping into the accessory groove on the exterior of the window also means that if you had a complete caulking failure, the moisture still won't bypass the window on that connection.

[WHITE GAS]

I don't think you understood any of my previous post if that is your takeaway from that. Capping is an absolute necessity in a bunch of replacement applications. Tucking the capping into the accessory groove on the exterior of the window also means that if you had a complete caulking failure, the moisture still won't bypass the window on that connection.

Explain how a trim member; be it 1/2”, 5/8”, or 3/4” capped in aluminum trim coil stock gets tucked into the accessory groove. If that’s the case, then the overall window dimension would need to be downsized to accommodate. I ordered my windows oversized by 3/8” in width and height, removed the accessory groove inside and outside and they fit in the openings like a glove. A single caulk joint, (max width @ 1/4”) and they look like they grew there.

[Windows on Washington]

And that's great and a fine application, but not the only what that homes and windows are set in them. I don't think anyone was referring to your install with specificity here, but to claim that capping work is unnecessary is not an accurate survey of the construction that does exist and that we do run into.

Capping isn't a "Band-Aid" in these cases. It's both functionally required in some applications as well as a proven application to encapsulate client trim in a format that will both protect it as well as eliminate it's need for painting and upkeep.