Replacement Windows Discussion Board Forum

JScott's post is clear concise and accurate.

Are you refering to the Marvin rot issue that was a failure of the PPG wood preservative that was used about the time you mention?

Itis not clad therefore it needed to be sealed. Pella and Andersen are this same way unless ordered with prefinished interior, other wise the end user needs to make sure it is sealed. Replacing the sash will not hurt anything, we do it often , sometimes 10 or 14 years old. I would say it is the pain...

The bottom of the bottom rail of the lower sash is to be painted/ sealed by the end user. That would be you the homeowner unless you paid some one to do it. Was the house purchased with a complete paint/stain package? If so I would think this is a omission error by the painter, which is not Marvins ...

Scatton just called me today, again asking for my business. I like doing therma tru full frame units. Decades ago did CAVCO, still use for an L frame.

You can get a higher DP rating with Simonton you just have to order it correctly.

I use the 5050, 5300, 5500. Mostly I use the 5500 series, if my customer wants something better/different then we do maintance free ext wood interior, Marvin, Eagle, Andersen, Pella.

Intercept has not been around the longest, unless you mean mainstream warm edge spacers. Skydawgs comments are valid. I would say that if you do not get some unbiased negative feed back on either model, A. look at some of their installs, B. all other things being close to equal go with the installer...

What model and material type with each mfg?

6' casements are pushing the performance envelope for all mfg.
Make sure you have a good warranty from abetter mfg.

If I had the same cost on those two models I would pick the Marvin. Check the air infiltration ratings.

Marvin and Eagle are 2 companies that do sash replacement kits.

Buddy,
Why don't you still sell GL?
You can post it on the contractor board.

What model window are you installing? In all cases they do not want you to suck the screw completely through the frame. Most frames are driled with a two step hole, the first is larger to allow the screw head to go through the jamb liner, the second is for the screw shank to go through and then for ...

They would have to spent more on labor to make sure the windows and doors are installed properly and caulked with joint design.