Door Replaced - Wrong DP and Install Question

[mttownse]

We had a leaking MI Doors and Windows 910 DP50 door replaced with a Simonton Innovo DP50 (or so we thought).

I live in coastal GA - savannah- and am about 15 miles from the coast. Our house has seen winds up to 110 sustained but thats primarily storm luck as all the big guys have missed us. In summer its not uncommon to have daily storms with 40-50mph winds.

Problem 1:
We were quoted the DP50 and they Installed the DP35. The owner admitted the mistake and has offered to replace the door with the DP50 or give me an undisclosed discount. My question is, is there any reason I wouldn't want to go with the DP50 to match the original door. I know the air infiltration numbers go from .17 to .22 cfm/sqft at 25mph but I dont have feel for if that is bad or not. I feel like the stiffness from the upgrade would help with water infiltration in TSs and keep the air infiltration more consistent as wind speeds increase.

Problem? 2:
As I am leaning toward replacing the door with the DP50, I wanted to get answers or opinions on the install prior to the next go around so I can discuss them with the installer. They have been receptive and warrantee their work for life but I dont want to overstep my bounds.

I wanted to check some claims by the installer on the install as I think they may be a bit erroneous. The extent of my knowledge is tech data sheets and manuals however so I dont have the "real world" experience to draw from.

1. To remove the new construction door, a recip saw was used to cut the door out of the jamb. The exterior trim was not removed so the cut off fins are still under the Trim Boards
2. The house wrap wrapped to the interior of the home during new construction. After sawing the door out, some cuts were present in the wrap. These were not repaired - was stated the foam will handle the water. Flashing tape was not applied in the opening surround.
3. The previous door was narrower than the Inovo so the interior trim had a rebate piece (~1.25" long). The installer left the rebate piece in place instead of removing it. This means the door sits outside a bit more than it looks like it should. I may be wrong. I included pictures to try and show this - including the missing trim on the side of the door with water damage for reference depth of the installed door.
4. The flash pan he made is a Z only. It does not flare on the sides up the 2X4. The sides run into the foam and sealant at the wood. The new construction install didnt have a pan at all so this is a minor improvement.
5. He reused my PVC ledger board but did not apply adhesive to the backside before screwing it back into the concrete. Because of this its a little wobbly.

So procedure was cut out old door - keep wrap in place and dont add any flashing, Bend pan, seal pan to concrete, dry fit door, Add sealant to the top of the pan then fit door, Screw in door, fill around door with foam (I think it was blue great stuff), add pvc filler strips around the door between the door flange and outside trim - the trim does not overlap the door, caulk strips.

What do you think? Sorry that the photo orientations are a little wonky.

[Windows on Washington]

Some missed details on his part, but I can't tear it apart. Most folks don't know how to turn up the legs on a pan and seal it.

Answered the other post about the DP options.

[mttownse]

Wha about not taping the inside of the door threshold and counting on just the foam?

[Windows on Washington]

Taping the sides and the head? Without removing the trim, there is not option to tape anything in.

[mttownse]

I am sorry. I dont know the proper terminology. I am talking about the long face of the 2X4" so the 3.5" long portion that the door is fastened to. They did not add anything over the damaged wrap prior to foaming the opening. I thought adhesive backed tape was supposed to be used on the opening and run to the tray before installing the door.

[mttownse]

Taping the sides and the head? Without removing the trim, there is not option to tape anything in.

I am sorry. I dont know the proper terminology. I am talking about the long face of the 2X4" so the 3.5" long portion that the door is fastened to. They did not add anything over the damaged wrap prior to foaming the opening. I thought adhesive backed tape was supposed to be used on the opening and run to the tray before installing the door.

[Windows on Washington]

I think the installer could probably better answer these questions onsite. Long and short, it's nearly impossible in a retrofit installation, to tie back into the WRB (i.e. housewrap, Tyvek, etc.).