Have used vinyl jamb extensions in the past w/ wide colonial casing and that’s a very “clean look. But I may just decide to go back w/ drywall returns.
My SOFTLITE setup
My SOFTLITE setup
Omitted from these drwg’s are metal head flashing, metal sill pan, and flashing tape all around w/ closed cell injection foam, closed cell backer rod and Tremco Dymonic caulk. Windows will be installed from inside. Decided to kiss the back side of the brick veneer and gain a 2 1/2” deep finish interior jamb. Undecided as of yet on interior finish other than for white Corian sills.
Have used vinyl jamb extensions in the past w/ wide colonial casing and that’s a very “clean look. But I may just decide to go back w/ drywall returns.![Image]()
Have used vinyl jamb extensions in the past w/ wide colonial casing and that’s a very “clean look. But I may just decide to go back w/ drywall returns.
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Windows on Washington
- Posts: 5344
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:23 am
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
Re: My SOFTLITE setup
Yours is the single story rambler? We have issues out there with 2 story facades with moisture aggregation on the brick veneer and creating leaks on windows/doors below at the head jamb.
Re: My SOFTLITE setup
Yes, I’m the single story rambler. Appreciate the comment and concern on 2 story facades.
Scenario A. I personally can’t see setting the frame proud of the back of the brick veneer. If I were to do that I’d lose bearing/mounting surface in the rough opening along w/ giving the appearance of a chunkier frame on the exterior. Also would most likely have to add trim components to exterior perimeter to facilitate some type of seal against brick.
Scenario B. Pulling the frame in, off the back of the brick veneer, decreases the depth of the finish jambs on the interior thus giving a spindly, narrow appearance. This would also create the need for some type of exterior jamb as well; again, to seal against the brick.
Scenario C. Fabricating an entire jamb that would encompass the frame on all four sides would allow for working with the window frame and the window jamb independent of each other. This scenario would allow the installation of a window jamb that could be shimmed; level/plumb/square, to the wall rough opening. The new replacement window frame would simply slide into the jamb from the interior of the residence, have full bearing within the jamb, and get secured and caulked in place. On the interior, the homeowner would have the choice of caulking the perimeter of the frame to the jamb thus leaving the full amount of frame exposed...or, reducing the amount of frame exposed by applying a finish jamb that would abutt the interior face of the frame thus reducing the amount of visible frame; or “chunkyness”. An independent sill could be added, and opening finished/trimmed out w/ casing.
Obviously option C is the most time intensive. Curious as to your thoughts on these 3 options? Multiple ways to “skin” a cat.
Have put this project on the back burner for way too many years. This forum has helped convince me that there’s no better time than the present to pull the trigger.
Scenario A. I personally can’t see setting the frame proud of the back of the brick veneer. If I were to do that I’d lose bearing/mounting surface in the rough opening along w/ giving the appearance of a chunkier frame on the exterior. Also would most likely have to add trim components to exterior perimeter to facilitate some type of seal against brick.
Scenario B. Pulling the frame in, off the back of the brick veneer, decreases the depth of the finish jambs on the interior thus giving a spindly, narrow appearance. This would also create the need for some type of exterior jamb as well; again, to seal against the brick.
Scenario C. Fabricating an entire jamb that would encompass the frame on all four sides would allow for working with the window frame and the window jamb independent of each other. This scenario would allow the installation of a window jamb that could be shimmed; level/plumb/square, to the wall rough opening. The new replacement window frame would simply slide into the jamb from the interior of the residence, have full bearing within the jamb, and get secured and caulked in place. On the interior, the homeowner would have the choice of caulking the perimeter of the frame to the jamb thus leaving the full amount of frame exposed...or, reducing the amount of frame exposed by applying a finish jamb that would abutt the interior face of the frame thus reducing the amount of visible frame; or “chunkyness”. An independent sill could be added, and opening finished/trimmed out w/ casing.
Obviously option C is the most time intensive. Curious as to your thoughts on these 3 options? Multiple ways to “skin” a cat.
Have put this project on the back burner for way too many years. This forum has helped convince me that there’s no better time than the present to pull the trigger.
Re: My SOFTLITE setup
Drwg’s for Scenario A.
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Windows on Washington
- Posts: 5344
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:23 am
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
Re: My SOFTLITE setup
Biggest takeaway here is, just as you have pictured, to make sure the window sill is shedding on the brick sill. That will be where 99% of the water is coming from.