Rotten Seat Board on Bow Window

[SteveSpy]

Hello Everyone:

We recently purchased a house with newer vinyl replacement windows. Once we moved in, we found the seat board on our bow window was rotted. Apparently the old homeowner drilled some weep holes that let moisture in and rotted the board! I checked, and the bow window is not under warranty.

The rotten section runs along the front of the bow for 18-24 inches, 2 inches deep, right over the knee brace. The window has begun to sag already.

Is it possible to repair/replace the rotten seat board or am I stuck replacing the entire 5 lite bow window to the tune of several thousand $$?

Any advice is welcome and thank you in advance for your help!

Thanks!

Steve

[Skydawggy.]

Hard to say without seeing it. Why would the previous owner drill weep holes? If it were me, I'd see if you can get someone to look at it and advise.

[SteveSpy]

Thanks for the reply dawggy:

Here are the pictures:







I have no idea why he drilled the weep holes. I think he was a bored old guy who wanted to do something to make his new windows "better"! I have had a few people out, and all dismiss the idea of fixing a window stating it is simply better to just get new with a warranty. I am a little suspicious because they usually follow it up with "if you order a new one today, we can use a promo that ends at 5pm, so you gotta sign now!

Again, thanks for your help!

[Skydawggy.]

That's pretty ugly. If I had to guess, I'd say there was condensation forming on the interior surfaces of the glass and the previous owner drilled weep holes b/c he got tired of mopping up the water. Interior condensation can be caused by several different things but the most common is high humidity levels in the house. Any chance there's a warranty on the window? Have you looked to see if there's any way to identify the manufacturer ie. bar coded tag etc? If I'm seeing the pictues correctly it looks as if the spacer is an old style rectangle aluminum spaced which dates the window to probably older than 15 years. Maybe contact a local glass shop and see if they can help you out. It may just be the window glass was plain double pane without LoE etc. In answer to your question, yes the seatboard can be replaced. The question is, is it worth it? Especially if you end up with this same problem. That, I can't answer for you.

[toddinmn]

There also should be some type of insulation under the seat.You will probally get a wide range in cost on repairing the window because of the rot and unforseen.Most will want to replace because of the rot and unknown.There is typically more money to be on replacing the window as well.This would be a good home owner project if you feel capable.I would also make sure all of the supports are intact.

[SteveSpy]

Thanks Guys.

I am getting quotes to replace, but they are pretty steep. An unforseen $4000 issue is tough to swallow right now. I would like to try and fix it if it is cost feasable.

Dawggy, I think you are right on... the house had a ton of interior moisture... the old guy was a smoker with several humidifyers and there was brown condensation lines on all of the walls. We pulled everything out to get the mustyness out of the home.

How would I go about replacing the seatboard? If I fail, I suppose I need a new window anyhow! Is there a resource you can point me to that will have some information?

I suppose I would need to support the window externally with some sort of frame while I remove and replace the rotten board. I would probably install a more robust knee brace as well. I am in the Chicago area, so if anyone knows of a good contractor, I'd appreciate it.

Thaks again!

[Bill]

Forget about the warranty, that window is installed improperly.

The top should have been closed up to the overhang. The top of the window is open to a driving rain and even if the top has a flat piece of aluminum over it the water will find its way under the aluminum and down between the mullions and onto the seat board.

Chances are the weep holes were drilled to drain the water out.

[fenestrationman]

I concur with Bill.
If a new one is to be installed, I would suggest a cabling system tied into the rafter tails to carry the weight.

[Delaware Mike]

Bill is right. Unfortunately we see this all too often with bays and bows. Usually it's the do-it-yourselfers that don't have experience with the siding brakes and construction of a bulkhead. Might be time to cut your loss and find the right company to purchase a new window with installation. Not all window dealers have such high pressure sales tactics with fake "buy today" discounts. There are some good ones out there.

[Windows on Washington]

+1

While I can appreciate the unforeseen expense shock, there is no real point in fixing a poor install without first addressing that.

[SteveSpy]

Thanks for all the advice. I have to agree with you... after shopping around, all new installs required a build out over the top of the window to prevent water build up. Makes perfect sense to me.

Thanks again!

Steve

[toddinmn]

You could possibly save alot of money if you put in a non bay/bow window and put in a casement/picture/casement combo.

[proteus]

thats what i did two full view casement flankers with one big picture fixed in the center framed out the top then hardytrim over top of window edge then siliconed could probally pressure wash it and it wont leak took a whle to do but very strong and watertight

wish i had the cabled seat unit it is really nice and a time saver just pricey but simplfies install

http://www.bayworldmfg.com/

sells kits or prebuilts to most bigger window builders

proteus