Make your own casements for replacement windows

[Hudel]

I recently had 14 aluminum windows and a patio door replaced with Milgard Tuscany. Window size ranged from large living room windows to small bathroom. Sizes from 5’x8’ to 1 ½ x 2’. Sliding patio door 6’x7’. Looked at all major brands and it was clear that Milgard was the best bang for buck and the best quality and warranty. And Milgard built windows within 1/16 of an inch!! Nobody does that!! (And they do not guarantee that, but they do it!!)

However none of the manufactures’ provides casement and/or moulding products that match the quality of the windows. Since I have experience with wood working I decided to DIY for the interior trim. Casement and moulding is not particularly difficult but measuring accuracy requires considerable attention to prevent unnecessary gaps.

The tools I used included:
1) Dewalt Portable table saw
2) Dewalt Jig saw
3) Dewalt 12 inch miter saw, 96 tooth blade
4) Rigid Router and table
5) Porter-Cable Pin Nailer / 6 Gal. 150 psi Compressor with 3 guns ($269 worth every penny from Home Depot)
6) Hammers and chisels
7) Paint brushes for Zinsser 1-2-3 primmer 2-Gal.

For casements I used 6/4 and 5/4 poplar lumber. I ripped to varying widths depending of each window and the spacing between replacement and original window sills. It is surprising to discover the inconsistencies your home has in widths of the sill and the window openings. ½ inch is a very standard error. That is why you must be careful to measure and re-measure.

Most lumber outlets have a wonderful selections of moulding. However the prices do not necessarily correspond to the quality. I found the best quality, selection and prices were at Austin Hardwood in Santa Ana California.

The poplar was $1.95 board foot and just beautiful wood and about 50% cheaper than most lumber outlets including Home Depot. The poplar moulding was $1.25 a foot for the 2 ½ x 1 ¼ inch and $0.53 a foot for the ¾ x ¾
Also I had 2 ¾ inch poplar rosettes on each corner at $2.85 for each rosette (very nice touch)

I high recommend that on each window sill you create a “chair rail” that sticks out 2 to 3 inches from wall. This gives elegance to the whole window that in addition to proving a 5” inch shelf. Albeit this touch requires the most craftsmanship because the fits must be precise and the edges must be routed (to your liking).

Included below are pictures of the finished windows before final painting.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hudel/sets ... 9729/show/

[Delaware Mike]

Looks nice. I like starting with all new trim as opposed to just adding stops which is more common with pocket inserts and customer's budgets. There is an exception. When I'm stuck installing trim with no helper during the Super Bowl like tonight on an empty stomach.

[HomeSealed]

Looks nice. I like starting with all new trim as opposed to just adding stops which is more common with pocket inserts and customer's budgets. There is an exception. When I'm stuck installing trim with no helper during the Super Bowl like tonight on an empty stomach.

Dang.

... Your project does look nice, good work. I might disagree with your assessment of Milgard as the best "bang for the buck" window, but certainly they are a decent choice and should serve you well. Also, just so that nobody gets confused, casing = the trim around the window. Casement = a hinged window, commonly called "crank-out".
There is little like the satisfaction of looking back at a job well done.