Sash Replacement Kit - Help/advice

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Sash Replacement Kit - Help/advice

#1 Post by cluenek »

Hello All,

After much research and much advice for a SOLID sash replacement kit. I am still confused on what brand of window to get. So here is a summary of where I'm at. I've investigated the brands below for the following spec.

Sash Opening: 30x50
Natural Exterior: (I figure unprimed makes it a little cheaper, I'll paint it)
Natural Interior: (I figure unprimed makes it a little cheaper, I'll paint it
14 deg
IGW Int Glaze Low E
7/8 Bead SDL Lt Brz Shadow Bar Colonial 6 over 6
Standard hardware

Screens are not included in the price.

Marvin Tilt-Pac $440

Jeldwen Pozzi $414
Eagle 494$
Weather Shield $440

Lincoln $345
Jeldwen Norco $333

Jeldwen Caradco $350
Crestline $303

Does anyone have any opinions on the windows above. I am leaning towards the Lincoln windows for two reasons, price and the lumber yard/home center will come out and measure for them.


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Location: Kentucky

#2 Post by JScott »

All the products you have listed should be sufficient for 5-10 years.

We have had good results with both the Lincoln and the Norco. We currently use the Lincoln as the sashes are heavier built than the Norco siteline series and our customers have agreed.

Lincoln is working on an easy tilt system that may not be out until spring. Your dealer probably has a Lincoln Generation IV double hung sample you can look at that and you may make you wait.

I am supprised the Caradco is more than the Norco.

Where Jeldwen has a 20 year warranty on the glass seal and the auralast wood, Lincoln has a 10 year warranty on the full unit and after ten years the insulated glass can be purchased for 50% list as long as the window is in your home. With life expectancy of 25 years the Lincoln warranty on there glass is actually the best in the wood industry.

A few others listed we have had service issues with.

If you with the Norco get the super spacer option.

With either product make sure the exterior SDL bars are aluminum and not wood!

The compression jamb liners come in white or beige. If your current jamb liners have fins then order your replacements with fins on the liners. Makes installation a snap(5 minutes). Open your existing window and slightly pry back the existing jamb liner at the bottom. Many used clips, which is okay just takes a little more time and patience to align and install the new clips.

If you choose an aluminum clad exterior(highly recommended) at a cost of $30 per unit(well worth it if a standard color is close) the Norco uses extruded clad while the Lincoln still uses roll form on the sash replacement sets( standard double hung uses extruded and the new tilt system will use extruded). I recommend extruded over roll form.

Hope this helps.

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Location: Kentucky

#3 Post by JScott »

Sorry about some confusion above. I was interupted and some of the sentences and spelling may have you all totally lost or even worse, wondering about my mental wellfare. I'm okay- trust me. If you need any clarifications please post- :lol:

Window4U (IL)
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Location: Sales and Installation in Chicagoland and Central Illinois

#4 Post by Window4U (IL) »

I've said this in previous threads before but I'll repeat it.
Make 100% sure that all your windows are plumb and level before going this route. If not, you could be in for more headaches than you could imagine. I still have nightmares about a home in LaGrange Illinois where I spent a month about 10 years ago. I had to rebuild all the frames and sills to make the tilt-pacs fit properly, then re-install all the apron, stops, stools, and casing.

I have also replaced hundreds of almost new tilt-pacs over the years that homeowners put in because they did not get the performance or air-tightness they were expecting.

Other than that, I hope you have good luck and like them.

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#5 Post by cluenek »

I chose a new topic instead.
Last edited by cluenek on Thu Sep 29, 2005 8:26 am, edited 2 times in total.

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#6 Post by cluenek »

My bad.

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#7 Post by WindDoze »

Windows4U is right...Jambliner and sash kits only work if the opening is 100% plumb level and square. I've worked with Marvin, Eagle, and Hurd and found the same problems across the board. If your windows are drafty before you install them, the J&S kit isn't going to solve that problem.

Many of the wood companies are starting to make wood replacement inserts, that go in just like the vinyl windows do. These would be a better option to look at if you have to have wood, but don't want to do a full frame install.

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Sash Replacement Kit - Help/advice

#8 Post by cluenek »

Any idea how much room I have to play with? My windows are fairly square and plum. I had the local lumber yard from which I am getting the windows from, size them up. They didn't seem to think I would have any issues. Of cousre, I am getting the windows from them, so it's probably somewhat biased.

I really want to stick with the sash kits. New contruction windows would be too time consuming and costly. I have a lot to do on this house. I'm not to keen on the inserts. I don't want to loose the window glass space. My windows are all 28'' wide and vary in heights. Longest height is 52.25'' I believe.

Also, anyone now why aluminum clad extruded is preferred over rolled. I am also concerned about fading and chalking. Lincoln uses AAMA 2603. Though my windows will be white, is this a valid concern.

Thanks again.

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Re: Sash Replacement Kit - Help/advice

#9 Post by toddinmn »

The non-clad Marvin tilt-pac can easily be made to fit out of square or plumb windows.You may have to shim the jambs,cut the sashes,or shim the top of the frame where the upper sash meets it.Most clad tilt-pacs can not have the sashes cut because of the cladding wraps around the bottom and top of the sash.I would also clad the well,blindstops and the head of the frame if it is painted.These areas can be hard to paint and will give it a clean look.i would also use a storm window instead of a screen on a tilt-pac.This will give you a better R-value,air infiltration numbers, protect your tilt-pac from the elements and should easily extend the life of the window beyond 5-10 years.Make sure you get the width on your measurements exact because if you order it even an 1/8 to wide it will fit to tight and have to be replowed or you will have to move the jamb over.not a big deal if ordered to narrow since the jambs can be easily shimmed.

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Re: Sash Replacement Kit - Help/advice

#10 Post by Shiftyboy »

I live in a 150-year-old house. All the door and window openings are trapezoidal due to settling. The jambs are plumb but the headers and sills are out of level. When i replaced my windows, I couldn't bear the idea of losing 3/4-inch on each side to frame inserts and wanted to go with marvin vinyl-clad wood sash kit because the sash had nice narrow frames that looked great with my house. So, I measured carefully and when I ordered the windows I used the smallest measurements for height and width of each window. I had to make wood inserts t top and bottom and this took an hour or so for each window which then covered with foam insulation--the kind that comes in roll and is sticky on one side. the result were excellent and airtight for five years now.. About $500 per kit for really big windows.

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